2010 Marlia Marcia

Last Sunday was the annual marcia podistica in Marlia, a town about 10 minutes away between where we are and Lucca.  It is called Marcia delle Ville or March of the Villas because it passes through many of the classic villas in the nearby hills.  These were once the summer homes of the Lucchese aristocracy and most of them, or at least their gardens, are now open to the public for a fee.  It is nice to be able to see a portion of the gardens without paying plus the views down onto the plain of Lucca are spectacular.

Luckily, it was a nice day.  In fact, I wore shorts in an effort to get some sun on my pale legs.  There were a few others in shorts, mostly serious runners, but it is still a little early for the Italians to be sporting summer attire.

The marcia begins at the site of the weekly Marlia market.  Even at 7 am there were a lot of people around.  It is probably the biggest marcia in the area as it is a three province walk (Lucca, Pisa and Pistoia, I think). 

Here are some of the folks from Partigliano signing in at our table.  As you can see, they are all in uniform.  Like most of the walks there was a Euro 2 subscription fee.  However, the "prizes" we receive at the end are usually worth more than that.  The prizes are donated by local businesses.  At Marlia they included pasta, paper towels and milk.

We arrived quite early at Marlia so we actually went to a nearby bar and had coffee before starting the walk.

We normally do the 5 or 6 km. routes but at Marlia we have done 10 or 12 km.  After walking out of town we were mostly in the hills.  Here we passed by a rather large vineyard.  On the hill beyond you can see the white facade of a villa we later walked right next to.

A little further along the route we were able to look back at the plain below us and the Pisan hills.

This shrine, a combination of a terracotta plaque and fresco, is on the front of a villa we passed.  Next to it was a huge espaliered lemon tree.

This photo shows the countryside looking east.  The hills are like a rumpled comforter with a pattern of olive groves, vineyards, villages, woods and grassy fields.  They flow from the steep mountains to the north down to the flat plain to the south.

I loved this "falling" wall alongside the road.  It looks like it is part of an old building but nothing is left except these few sections of wall.  It drops off steeply on the other side and we could see that the landowner was using it for a spot to burn debris (grass and olive prunings).  These walls have probably been leaning like this for decades but I have to think that someday they will just topple over.

In an earlier photo (of the large vineyard) I pointed out a white plastered villa high on a hill.  This is the opposite side of the building, all stone and ivy.  It was the ristoro (refreshment) stop on our route.  There is a lovely patio with a stone table just to the left of the tents. We then walked around the villa and began our downhill descent.

We were walking with our friend Mary who was a ways ahead of us at this point.  She popped behind a tree to get a picture of us strolling towards her.  So I took a picture of her!

A ways down the hill we happened upon this large gray cat.  He was quite friendly and allowed us to pet him.  As we moved on he sat down in the middle of the road and stared after us.  His expression seemed to me to indicate he was a little put out with us because we quit paying attention to him.

As we approached another villa we were overtaken by this band.  They were accompanied by flag throwers although we missed their full presentation.  It was quite loud as they passed us in the woods.

This is the best villa I took on Sunday.  I am not sure which one it is but we did not actually walk very close to the building.  Our route ran through the woods on the left side of this picture.

As we made our way back into Marlia we came upon another band accompanied by baton twirlers.  There was quite a range of ages in the troupe.  They later came into the market area and gave a lengthy dance performance. 

This coming weekend there are two marcie because Saturday is a holiday (the celebration of Labor Day here) and then there is a regular Sunday walk.  Both are ones we have done before.  Depending on how we are feeling (and the weather) we might do rather short courses.  It is supposed to rain on Sunday morning.  Aaarrgghh!!

Views around Partigliano

A few days ago I took a walk around our little valley.  Here are some pictures from that walk.

This is the bar in the village.  The Wisteria is in full bloom.  Later, after the vine leafs out it provides a nice screen against the afternoon sun. 

A fruit and vegetable truck comes to the village at least once a week.  Here it was parked down by the church with some of the local ladies making their purchases.

I proceeded to hike up the hill through the village.  About halfway through there is a chiesetta (chapel).  It was freshly painted over the winter.

The chiesetta is almost always locked but the windows are often open.  Through one you can see the crumbling fresco and alter along the back wall with some fresh flowers and greenery.

There are wild Iris blooming everywhere.

From the end of the valley, near the town of Fondagno, I could see Partigliano and down towards Valdottavo.

Spring is rather late here in the Lucca area.  The apple blossoms are particularly lovely right now.  There were a number of trees right along the road where I was walking.  They were beautiful and smelled very sweet.









Here is a better shot of Partigliano from across the valley. The main part of the village is clustered around the church but there are a number of houses further up the hill. The chiesetta is in the midst of the higher cluster of homes.

Many of the old fields around the valley have been let go wild.  This one is covered with blackberry vines.

Friends of ours used to own this house.  The new residents have painted it bright yellow.  It really glowed in the sunshine.

The small creeks that run through the ravines and down to the bottom of the valley are splashing and burbling.  Later in the year they are much quieter.

An English couple are renovating the old mill at the bottom of the hill.  The roof is off but it is still waiting for the new one.  Hopefully, the work will commence soon.

Auto e Moto d'Epoca a Roma Fiera - Dom's version

Here are Dom's favorite vehicles from our visit to the classic car show near Rome.

Kate's Fantastic Adventure - Pompeii

On our last full day in Sorrento we visited the Roman ruins at Pompeii.  As most people know, an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D. engulfed the city of Pompeii (and other nearby towns) in many meters of falling ash.  It was a large, thriving town and many of its citizens left before they died.  However, a number stayed and they, along with all the buildings were trapped like flies in amber to be found many hundreds of years later.  Naples (or Neopolis - New City) was where many of those who fled Pompeii later settled. 

I only took two pictures at Pompeii.  Here is one of them--Emily, Cherie, Cindy and Kate sitting in the small amphitheater.  As you can see the weather was great the day we were there.

The most interesting thing about Pompeii is that city was well preserved by the ash that enveloped it.  It looks much as it did in 79 A.D. except the roofs of the buildings are gone.  The area began being excavated in the 1700's but that was mostly looters.  Over the next several hundred years there were a number of efforts to systematically uncover the city but none last long.  It was not until the beginning of the 1900's that the newly unified government of Italy undertook the giant project.  Even today, 100 years later, there are still areas of old Pompeii that have not been rediscovered.  However there is about a square kilometer of area that is open to the public and it includes all the main business, government and commercial areas of old Pompeii. 


We took the train from Sorrento to Pompeii (about a 30 minute ride) and spent a couple hours exploring the city.  Our trusty Rick Steves guide gave us a good self-guided walking tour of the area that included the old baths, the largest private villa in town and a bordello.  We would not let Kate go in the latter. :-)

Pretty much all of the art (frescoes, mosaics and statues) have been replaced by copies and the originals are now in the National Archeological Museum in Naples.  Dom and I went there last fall and although it was interesting to see the originals, it is actually more fascinating to see the replicas on site in Pompeii. 

Afterwards we went back to the train station to return to Sorrento.  We must have just missed a train because the platform was nearly empty when we got there.  By the time we left it was pretty full.  It was back to Sorrento for more shopping, afternoon naps, packing to leave the next day, another dinner out and more gelato at Davide II.

Auto e Moto d'Epoca a Roma Fiera

Last Saturday Dom and I drove to Rome for another classic car and motorcycle show.  It was a beautiful day for a drive down the coast and we enjoyed the trip.  The show was at the Roma Fiera not far from the airport at Fiumicino.  The complex is HUGE and it took us a while to figure out where the show was within the many buildings, how to get into the parking area and then how to get into the show itself.  Eventually we did and found a number of interesting vehicles.  Of course, the vehicles I find noteworthy are not always the same as those Dom likes.  So, here is are my highlights from the show.

I loved the display of four classic Fiat Cinquecento models.  They were "dressed" as the four seasons.  Here we have "summer" with all that one needs for a day at the beach.

Here is "fall" with debris from the vendemmia (grape harvest).

Here is "winter" complete with fake snow, a sled and skis.

And finally we have "spring."

I also always enjoy the different permutations of Vespas and other scooters.  Here is one with a sidecar.

Here is a Vespa with a trailer.  It has an interesting "hitch" that allows the trailer to rotate around the seat portion of the scooter.

Here is a bright pink Vespa, exactly the color I would like if I had one!

In one section of the show was a great mass of different types of scooters and motorcyles.

Here is another view of the scooter mob.

Here is an American import I did not find terribly appealing.  This giant Jack Daniel's bar complete with country music on a big screen TV and...

...a giant buffalo for "bull riding."  I actually saw someone on the buffalo!

Outside the Fiera complex there were several GIANT olive trees.  These had the biggest trunks of any olive trees I have ever seen.  Obviously very old, they were probably transplanted here from another location.  We see this frequently and the olives are so hardy they seem to come through the transplanting with no trouble. 

In another post I will give you Dom's favorites from the show.

Kate's Fantastic Adventure - The Island of Capri

The day we planned to go to Capri we woke up to threatening skies.  Nonetheless, we at breakfast and then made our way down to the ferry dock.  By the time we reached the harbor it was pouring.  We bought our tickets and then ducked into a nearby bar/ristorante for cappucino and the use of the toilette.  Kate was obviously happy but the rest of us were a bit concerned about the weather.  Luckily, it turned out to be a passing squall and by the time we reached Capri the sun was shining.

After reaching Capri we stood in line for the funicular, rode it up the hillside and reached Capri town.  Here are the ladies framed by Monte Solara, the highest point on the island.  The mountain gives one a good idea of the topography of the island.  Almost everywhere the rocky ground drops precipitously into the sea.  This made the island highly defensible but the inhabitants made a poor living from the land and were mostly fishermen.  However, since Roman times it has been a beloved spot for a holiday and certainly for the last several hundred years that has been the island's main industry.

We started out by walking through Capri town.  The shopkeepers were still in the process of opening up and it was interesting to see them washing windows, sweeping the street in front of the boutiques and chatting with each other.  All the major designers have shops that were fascinating too look in but too expensive for us.  Eventually our strolling brought us to the old monastary on the far side of the island.  Apple and cherry trees were blossoming and other trees leafing out.  The grass was an incredible shade of green.  One advantage of being there early in the spring is that the lack of foliage on the trees allows one a better view.

Emily had a purse that Cherie and I thought just screamed out to the pickpockets, "I'm easy!"  In this photo you can see that Cherie is trying to teach her daughter a lesson.  Unfortunately, Emily exhibited great reflexes and tried to break her mother's finger. 

The girls seemed unphased by the attempted pickpocketing.  Emily was able to block out Cherie's whining about her finger.

We finished our stroll at a beautiful park that was being readied for spring.  The gardeners were just in the process of planting the annuals and the color was marvelous.  The park is a frequented by tourists as it has beautiful views of the cliffs and the town of Capri.  We explored the different terraces before setting off for Villa Jovis.

From the park I could see the back side of the monastary.  Dom and I explored it last fall and parts of it are in good repair and are used by a school and as a museum.  It was interesting to see that parts of it are obviously abandoned, covered with vines and slowly disintegrating.

We decided to hike to Villa Jovis, the Roman emperor Tiberius' palace on the south end of the island.  It is a 45 minute walk along paved pathways set between houses and fields.  Along the way there were some lovely views such as the one at left.  Unfortunately, I did not emphasise the "45 minute" part and some in the group were surprised at how long it was taking.  It was also quite an uphill hike.  Kate and I blythely strolled ahead whilst behind us some (who shall not be named) were in danger of collapsing.  Luckily at about that point we stopped to buy sandwiches at a little alimentari (grocery).  The proprietress, while not as friendly the one in Atrani, made us delicious panini with mortadella, fresh mozzarella and tomato before we set off for the rest of the hike.

A little before we reached Villa Jovis we decided to stop for our picnic at an open area that offered a spectacular view over the Bay of Naples.  The surroundings were not the more "romantic" but we found some steps to sit on and Cindy even stretched out for a little snooze in the sun.

The view from our lunch time perch was much better than these pictures reflect.  Or, perhaps it was just our ability to look beyond the gritty foreground to the beauty beyond.  We never did figure out exactly what the area was--there were several more open terraces below this one.  However, we hypothesised that it could be a campground in the summer months.

On our way back into town we made the acquaintance of a couple of cute dogs--possibly a mother and child.  They followed us all the way back to the middle of the shops.  Cherie and Emily were plotting how to bring the puppies back to the U.S.  I managed to dissuade them by telling them yes, they could bring dogs into the U.S. but no, they could not bring a dog in the rental car. Eventually the dogs took off on their own and left us behind.  I am sure they are well-loved Italian pets.  They were certainly friendly enough.

We were back in Sorrento by late afternoon--time for a little shopping and lazing.  Kate and Cindy cut up one of the giant lemons they had bought the day before.  It was fascinating to learn that the huge lemons are mostly rind.  The lemony part is actually not much larger than a regular size lemon.  The two of them thought it was quite good.  I let them have it all as I am not a fan of eating a lemon like an orange.

It was that afternoon I believe that we found the BEST gelateria of the trip.  Gelateria Davide II (recommended in Rick Steves and other guidebooks) had the most delicious gelato fo the entire trip.  We ended up going there three times in two days.  If we could have gone for a last dish the morning we left Sorrento we would have.  Unfortunately they are not open that early in the morning!