Auto Swap Meet in Florence and Lunch in Fiesole

Swap meet poster


Ferrari 355

All sorts of scooters

In one of the classic car magazines that Dom buys over here he saw a notice for a Scambio auto - moto e ricambi d’epoca (classic car/motorcycle/parts swap meet) in Florence this weekend. The event was held under part of the grandstand at the main soccer stadium. We left the house early, stopped for cappucini and pastry at the bar here in Partigliano and made it there by about 9:30. It was another beautiful day and we really enjoyed the drive along the autostrada through the countryside, especially the area around Pistoia and Prato where there are miles of plant nurseries. One in particular, Rose Barni (Barni Roses), was spectacular—acres of flowering plants in a rainbow of colors.

The swap meet was a much smaller version of the ginormous show we saw last fall in Padova. Nonetheless there were some interesting vehicles. Dom was particularly taken with a Ferrari 355. There was also a variety of motorcycles, scooters, and cars in various stages of repair and disrepair. Lots of parts, tools, magazines, clothes and other motor head paraphernalia were also offered for sale. We saw serious buyers who had small carts to haul off their finds as well as other looky-lous like us. Although I think Dom would have really liked to take the Ferrari home.

A mob of tourists at Fiesole

Roman amphitheater

Arches from Roman bathes framing Fiesole church tower

It was such a small show that we had seen it all by 10:30 am. We decided to drive up to the town of Fiesole in the hills to the north of Florence. It had been about seventeen years since we had been there and the last time the weather was not good. We zoomed up the hill to the small town and found parking near the archeological park and museum. So that seemed like the thing to do. We spent about an hour there looking at the museum exhibits—Etruscan, Roman and Longobard artifacts—and then walked around the park that includes the remains of a Roman amphitheater, baths and temples. It was warm and sunny with a slight breeze. As we strolled we could smell the scent of early flowering jasmine. It was darn near idyllic except for the tourists (we have met the enemy and he is us!). There was about sixty Americans (mostly teens, either high school or college) touring the sight with a guide. Most of them were more interested in taking pictures of each other in front of every piece of stone in the park. They were quite amusing to watch. Dom got a kick out of the fact that one of them said, “Buongiorno” to us as we walked through the group. Did they think we were Italian!?!?

After we finished at the park we walked up the hill in Fiesole looking in the shop windows and searching for a place for lunch. In the end we went back to the main piazza and sat outdoors at Bar Blu. It has a fabulous view of the city of Florence. Spread below us we could see the Duomo and the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio. We had a light lunch before heading back to the car and making our way back home.

After our busy morning we returned to the house and just vegged. Late in the afternoon I sat on the patio reading in the sunshine. It is about 7 pm before the sun drops below the hills so it stays quite pleasant outside well into the evening. Nonetheless, the inside of the house is still quite cold. I can hardly wait until the walls warm up and the house is as pleasant inside as outside.

Facciamo le spese (Running Errands)

The new Permesso di Soggiorno with its fancy sleeve.


Dom admiring an old but immaculate Moto Guzzi parked in front of a shop in Borgo Giannotti.

Yesterday was a day of running errands. In the morning we had a 9 am appointment at the Lucca Questura to pick up our new Permessi di Soggiorno (long stay permits). We arrived a little after the hour and got in line about 5 people back. Amazingly the line moved quite quickly. Within twenty minutes we had our shiny new cards in hand and were on our way to the next stop. Since we renewed our PdiS two years ago they have implemented a new system. Now they give you a credit card type document covered with interesting looking holograms and embedded information. They will certainly be easier to carry than a thick full size document. The latter made quite a wad when folded up and stuck inside our passports.

After that we went to Borgo Giannotti so Dom could get a haircut. I walked over to the post office to mail a card and then wandered around the area until I came across Dom. Our next stop was Media World for new CDs. Then we went to Flash Computer to sign up for ADSL (DSL service). Yes, we plan to finally spring for high speed internet. It has been available here in the village for at least a year but we kept thinking the house would sell so… Unfortunately, the person we needed to speak with was not there so we needed to go back in the afternoon.

Of course, now that we have signed up for it the house will probably sell right away. Things are picking up on the house sale front. We have had one showing since we came back and we hear that the market is heating up.

The weather was high overcast but it was warm enough for lunch on the patio. Dom found a problem with the bathroom sink plumbing so he worked on that while I caught up on email. Later we went out again. Back to Flash Computer, a stop at a real estate office in Ponte a Moriano and then on to the ferramenta in Diecimo for a plumbing part. They did not carry it so we went on to Ghivizzano to a plumbing supply store.

Back at the house Dom made the repair while I called my mother for a nice chat. We had a quiet evening in.

Mowing the Meadow

A completed terrace with the unmown grass around the vines and on the right the next terrace to be done.


One stripe done on the next terrace.


Pit stop--Dom refueling my vehicle.

A close-up of some of the many wildflowers among the grass.

Tuesday was another busy day. We used the cutter bar mower to cut ALL the terraces in one day! I steered it around for about half the job and then Dom completed it. Now he has about two days with the strimmer (string trimmer/weedwacker/friulino) to cut the banks and around the trees and vines. Then we need to rake it all and burn it. If the weather holds, we might have the job done in another week. Yeah!

Before we started the terraces looked like lush meadows—lots of different grasses mixed with a dozen different types of wild flowers and clover. It was about two feet tall in most places. As I walked behind the mower it smelled like I was mowing an herb garden. The grassy scent was overpowered by perfume of mint and oregano. One of our neighbors started burning grass he had cut earlier. The herby smoke always reminds me of the scent of marijuana!

The birds really love the mown terraces. Suddenly they can reach the ground and, especially in the morning, they flit around poking and pulling at the worms and creatures hidden in the dirt.

Tuesday evening Mary, Orlando, Bob and Joy came for dinner and we all celebrated Cinco de Mayo. It was a communal effort and we enjoyed Corona beer, margaritas, chips, salsa and quacamole followed by chicken and spinach enchiladas, black beans and salad with tomato, green onion, black olives and sweet corn. For dessert we had flan (crème caramel custard) and strawberries. The margaritas, made according to the package directions, were REALLY strong. My one glassful must have had about three shots of tequila in it. It took me the rest of the evening to recover!

Italian Oddities

A few things you don't see everyday in Italy, or anywhere for that matter!


Steam train at Fornaci di Barga station. According to placard on side it came from La Spezia via Viareggio and Lucca. We saw it at about 5 pm when it was loading up for the return journey.


Scottish pipe leading a rock band! They were playing at the festa at Fornaci on Sunday afternoon. They were actually very good.

Sunday Marcia Podistica at Camigliano

View from hills above Camiglian0



Roadside shrine



Lovely farm complex

Bob and Joy at Villa Torrigiani

So picturesque!

On Saturday we made plans to meet with Mary, Bob and Joy and go to the marcia podistica at Camigliano on Sunday. Yesterday was a beautiful morning and we are still in the grip of jet lag so getting up for a 6:45 am rendezvous was easy. Dom and I sort of knew the way to Camigliano but Mary was sure of where it was so we made it there in good time. By 7:15 am we were on the course.

It was a steady uphill climb for the first half of the 5 km. walk but that allowed for some lovely views of the area east of Lucca. Mary and I had outpaced the others (huff puff huff) as we climbed but we waited for Joy, Bob and Dom at “the top” and the group mostly stayed together the rest of the way. The entire route was picturesque but some spots were particularly lovely. Bob and Joy wanted a picture of themselves in front of the Villa Torrigiani so I obliged. When we finished walking there was there was the usual hot (too sweet) tea, wine and water, toasted bread topped with oil, garlic and vinegar and cookies. The premi (prizes) were bottles of laundry soap and small cartons of milk. Anything is better than more pasta! The five of us carpooled so on the way back to Vinchiana, where we met, we stopped for cappuccini and pastry at Bar Europa. By then, 9:15 or so, the morning was quite warm and we clustered around a small outdoor table enjoying our second breakfast.

Later in the day Dom and I made a quick trip to Fornaci di Barga for their annual May Day festival. We toured the usual cars and tractors before heading back to the house. About 7 pm, Steve and Carol, the prospective owners of the old mill down the hill, their son Jack and Steve’s brother Mick came for drinks and nibbles. After a tour of their house we sat on the patio and chatted for a quite a while. I took Carol up to see Erina and Bruno’s casa di vacanza as they might want to stay there in the future. After our company left, Dom and I faded rather quickly. We skipped dinner and just snacked a little more. In the end, we stayed up until about 10:30 but we were both dozing in front of the television by that time.

More Chores, More Sunshine

Squeak the cat lounging in the newly cut grass


Sunshine on the patio!


The irises and roses are the only plants that survived the winter.

Our long nap yesterday made for a poor night’s sleep. We were both awake shortly after 3 am. Dom finally got up about 5 am but I took a little chemical assist and managed a few more hours.

Yesterday and today we discovered that our favorite gatti (cats) not only survived the winter but expected to be fed. They were right at the kitchen door this morning begging but there was no cat food until later.

By 9 am we had eaten breakfast and Dom was off to the strimmer repair shop in Valdottavo for a part. He was back in about half an hour. I took the car and went to Esselunga for more groceries. The store had seemed incredibly crowded on Thursday but this morning it was as full as I have ever seen it. A good half the time I spent there was simply trying to maneuver in the aisles.

Back at the house Dom had finished cutting the grass around the house. I pulled the weeds and dead vegetation out of the patio planters before sweeping the entire patio area. By the time I finished it was time for a shower and lunch.

We ate on the patio in the hot sunshine. A good breeze kept it manageably cool otherwise it would have been too much heat. However, it feels wonderful to sit outside in shorts and a sleeveless t-shirt after the long, cold winter on Whidbey Island. If it weren’t for the threat of massive sunburn and the need for a short nap I would still be out there listening to the chorus of strimmers and birds, inhaling the smell of fresh cut grass and soaking up the rays.

Dinner at home and an early night.

First Day Back - Not La Dolce Vita

Walking at Montemagno, LU

Even though we slept well our first night at the house, we were still awake by 4 am. About 6 am we decided to get up and go to the marcia podistica at Montemagno. It was another beautiful day and by the time we reached the start of the walk the chill air was turning balmy. It was fun to see our friends Erina, Antonio, Desi, Eni and all the rest of the Unione Sportivo di Partigliano group. They were excited to see us and the learn that we plan to stay long enough to help put on the Partigliano marcia on June 21. Many hands make light work!

We stopped at Bar Bini in Diecimo for coffee and pastry and then went home to start work. Dom got the strimmer running and eventually cut about half the grass in the vicinity of the house. Unfortunately a part broke on the strimmer so he had to stop for the day.

Meanwhile, I dusted and vacuumed up all the dead insects in the house. It was not too onerous a task but certainly not la dolce vita. Fortunately, Dom’s strimmer breakdown occurred at a good hour for lunch. We ate in the sunshine on the patio, stayed outside for another hour or so before showering and napping for a few hours. We woke at 7:30 in time to go to our favorite local restaurant, La Fonte, for dinner.

La Fonte was really hopping last night. They had extra help on hand and a full house. The food was wonderful as always but the people-watching was equally as good. There were lots of family groups and a number of really adorable babies. We enjoyed our best meal since we arrived in Italy as well as the vibrant activity at the restaurant. It was about 11 pm when we arrived home. Jet lag once more overwhelmed us and it was off to bed.

Trenitalia - Rome to Pisa

Views from the train

Our trip from Rome to Pisa by train was a lovely interlude. As noted in the last post, we purchased 1st Class tickets for the first time. Except for the fact that our seats faced backwards (75% did in the First Class carriage) it was nice to have really comfortable seats with tray tables, a little garbage bin, and foot rests. Trying to stow all our baggage was a challenge. I felt a little conspicuous amongst all the chic Italians with their tiny suitcases. Mind you, they were only going away for a long weekend while we were carting all sorts of only slightly necessary stuff.

Before leaving Rome we went to a famous “deli” across from our hotel called Volpetti and purchased panini (sandwiches). Dom’s roll had mortadella and prosciutto with pecorino del fosso (pecorino aged “in a ditch”). Mine was the same minus the mortadella. With an apple from Washington State, a little chocolate and two bottles of water we had a nice feast as we sped northward on the rails. I thought it was quite amusing that pretty much right at 1 pm, all the Italians pulled out their picnic lunches. There was a lot of rustling of paper and hissing of twist tops. Although we could not see it I am sure some of the bottles contained vino.

The weather was beautiful and the views along the coast were spectacular. For quite some time we hugged the coast. It was fun to peer into the gardens of the seaside villas and check out the apartment balconies facing the tracks. In Civitavecchia, the cruise ship port for Rome, we could see four ships at the dock. Later in the trip we cruised quite close to Camp Darby, a U.S. Army supply depot near Pisa. Dom and I both read throughout the journey and felt quite relaxed when we hauled our luggage off the train.

Our car supplier, Rosario, pulled up at the curb right outside Pisa Centrale shortly after we arrived. As usual, the paperwork was completed on the hood of the car and we were on our way in about five minutes. It is soooo much easier picking up a car in Pisa rather than our old system of getting a Renault lease in Nice, France. We love the Renault system but Rosario is nearly as good. The only downside is that for the third time we have the same car. It started out nearly new a year ago and now it has about 65,000 km on the odometer.

As May 1 is a national holiday here we made a fairly quick stop at the supermercato to acquire a few supplies. The place was a mob scene but we managed to get enough to hold us for a while in short order.

At Partigliano we found all in order at the house. It took an hour or so to “open” the house—turn on the electricity, water and gas, get the hot water heater working properly, the luggage in from the car and the groceries put away. The interior of the house was, and still is, freezing in spite of the warm weather outside. I promptly put up the bug screens and opened the windows. Unfortunately by the time that was done, the sun was beginning to set and it was cooling off outside.

With no afternoon nap, Dom and I were overcome by jet lag by about 7 pm. I made us bowls of pasta, we ate and went to bed by 8 pm.

A Day in Rome

Hotel Santa Prisca

Yesterday we arrived safely in Rome after a rather boring flight from Seattle via Amsterdam. The most interesting part was that the plane we flew (NW/Delta) had individual viewing screens with on-demand movies. The lesson learned was do not start watching a movie too close to the end of the flight. They came and took the headphones away with five minutes left to go at the end of Slumdog Millionaire. Not reading lips well, I was left to guess at the dialogue but was able to get the gist of the ending.

Once here in Rome we made our way to Hotel Santa Prisca. It is a modest hotel located in the Testaccio district. We like it for a number of reasons not least because the area is less touristy than the Centro Storico. It is always very clean. The breakfast is good. It is close to Piramide Metro station and Roma Ostiense rail station. We have stayed here five or six times so we also know how to catch the bus to wherever we want to go in Rome.

Market stalls at Testaccio

After lugging our voluminous baggage (mostly “stuff” and few clothes!) to the hotel we took a nap from about 3:30 to 7:30. Then we went and had pizza for dinner. This morning we were awake early and were down for breakfast at 7 am. After that we wandered around the Testaccio daily market for a while. Yesterday’s rain had given way to blue skies and the sunshine promised a warm afternoon. Everything was freshly washed and sparkling in the early morning light. The market vendors were still setting up but it was fun to see their beautiful displays of vegetables, fruit, fish and meat. Meandering through the market always makes me long for a kitchen so I can prepare some of the interesting items on display. There were lovely looking zucchini with the flowers still attached, multiples sorts of tomatoes and a mixture of bite size pieces of sausage and meats marinating in oil and spices.

From there we went to the train station and bought our tickets for tomorrow’s trip to Pisa. We have not made a rail journey for some time so we are looking forward to the three hour trip.

Parking is limited in Rome so you see LOTS of tiny cars. Smart cars rule!

From one of the expat-in-Italy blogs that I follow we learned there is a temporary exhibit of early Renaissance paintings by Fra Angelico at the Capitoline Museums. These museums are the two buildings that bracket the famous Campidoglio piazza behind the Vittoriano monument at Piazza Venezia. The bus ride was about ten minutes but it was a great mini tour as it passed by the Colosseum and Foro Romano before we reached our destination.

Fontan di Trevi - note the guy in boots walking across the fountain. Almost no one was there at 9 in the morning.

It was still early so we walked a few blocks away to the Trevi Fountain. There were very few people there and the fountain was not running when we arrived. However, within a minute or two the water started flowing (Dom thinks they might have had to prime the system as a worker was doing something with a hose) and the piazza began to fill with tourists. One of the funny things we saw was a husband and wife taking pictures of each other tossing coins over there shoulders into the water. Unfortunately the wife looked like her coin was sure to bean someone on the head. It did not but also fell short of the fountain. She seemed oblivious to all this but Dom and I, as well as the Italians standing nearby, found it hilarious.

The roofs of Rome - multiples layers of history visible in the picture on right.

Dom and the giant foot of Rome + the original Marcus Aurelius statue

We made our way to the Capitoline Museums and went in. Neither of us had ever visited them before and we discovered some interesting things. The Fra Angelico exhibit was very well done. They had gathered works of his from museums all over the world and the display and commentary were all superb. On the top floor of the museum is a panoramic terrace where one can see all across the roofs of Rome. It was worth the price of admission just to go up there. The bulk of the museums are devoted to ancient Roman art—mostly statues. The most important item in the collection is the original equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. A copy is now the centerpiece of the Campidoglio (designed by Michelangelo) and the original is well displayed in a huge atrium style room.

A lovely little building in Trastevere I liked.

We finished up at the museums about 1 pm and then found a restaurant for a rather mediocre lunch. Afterwards we walked across the bridge to the Trastevere area. Meandering through there it took us about a half hour to walk back to our hotel. By 3 pm we were back in our room ready for our afternoon nap. At 7:30 pm the alarm went off, waking us for dinner. The evening air was still balmy when we left the hotel about 8:30. A nearby restaurant provided our best meal yet followed by a little cup of gelato for me.

It has really been a wonderful first day back in Italy. Strangely, once we arrive here my Italian language skills always seem to come to the forefront of my brain. Each trip it gets easier and easier.

Tomorrow we are off to Partigliano. I can hardly wait to get there!

The Bathroom is (mostly) finished!

Need art and towel bars.


We plan to eventually trade the shower curtain for a glass screen.



In the mirror you can see the unpainted door trim and the list of tasks to complete taped to the back of the door.

Our guest bath is once more useable. Dom even took a shower in the tub one morning. We still have a number of tasks to complete but they will mostly get done after we return from Italy at the end of June. We are really pleased with the way it turned out.

The Most Fun Ever!!!

Lou ready to drive fast!

Last Christmas Dom enrolled me in the one day High Performance Driving Course at Proformance Driving School. They run their programs at Pacific Raceway in Kent, WA. On March 30 we got up really early and made our way 2 1/2 hours south to the track for an 8 am start. I was so excited the night before I could hardly sleep!

The day started out with about an hour or so of classroom instruction and then we spent the morning doing a number of defensive driving drills. After lunch we got to the really exciting part of the day--driving fast on the track. Beforehand we had another classroom session where we learned about the correct line to take on the track, the track layout and the rules under which we would be driving. Then our twelve person class was split into two sections. I was in the first group.

Most of the students had their own cars but, since none of ours our suitable for track driving, I used a school car--a Chevy Cobalt with race seats, race belts, roll bars, etc. It was pretty zippy and, I thought, handled quite well at high speed. An instructor rode in each car during our track sessions. Each of the three sessions was about twenty minutes long.

It is hard to describe the experience except to say that it was the most fun I have EVER had bar none. The thrill of driving on the track at high speed (to me!) was just incredible. Even more fun was actually being good at it. Not only did my instructor tell me that I was pretty good but a total stranger (not affiliated with the school) told me "my" car looked pretty good on the track!

Of course the grin on my face was about a mile wide the entire afternoon. I spent a couple of days trying to figure out how soon I could get back to the track. Of course first we need to buy a sports car. I told Dom that next Christmas I want to do a three day open wheel car race driving course. We'll see if I get it.

In the meantime, I am really excited to get back to driving in Italy. It will be fun to once more be in a zippy little car taking the curves as fast as possible.


"My" car on the track. In the distance you can see how curvy the course is. It is over two miles long.


I did not get passed much but this Audi was REALLY fast and a great looking car as well.



My car is the first in the row. They had us line up every time we came back. Unfortunately being first in line meant I was always doing the exercises first. It would have been easier if I could have seen someone else do them first.

Abruzzo Earthquake

Several people have asked us if our house in Italy is near the earthquake affected area. No, we are at least 150 miles northwest of L'Aquila. Our corner of northern Tuscany was untouched by the tremors. Even so we have been very concerned. Thank goodness for the internet which allows us to follow the event in spite of limited U.S. and local coverage.

If you click on this post's title it will take you to CNN coverage of the Abruzzo earthquake with many pictures of the devastation. We visited L'Aquila in 1997 and found it a beautiful, vibrant city. It is located in the mountains about 60 miles east of Rome and is a popular locale for skiing and hiking. The first morning we were there we learned that it was a mistake to sleep in. The hikers going out for the day made quick work of the breakfast buffet as they filled their rucksacks with whatever was suitable for lunch. By the time we came down there was not much left except cereal! We loved the weekly market that filled the town's central square. A short way out of town was an incredible fountain that is one of the most beautiful I have seen anywere. To see the wreckage is truly heartbreaking but it is not the first time an earthquake has partially destroyed the town (see Wikipedia article on L'Aquila). The Italians are nothing if not resilient and they will recover.

Nonetheless, help is always appreciated. If you want to make a donation, the National Italian American Foundation has set up a fund to assist the survivors. Many thanks to Valerie at 2 Baci in a Pinon Tree who also has other links for donating.

Progress continues to be made on the bathroom remodel. However, we can't wait to be on our way to Italy on April 27th. Less than three weeks now!!!

Dreaming of Primavera in Italia

Lately I have received grief from several friends about my lack of recent posts. Over a month ago I lamented that it had been a month since the previous one. Now it has been five weeks! My only excuse is that it has been an incredibly busy spring.

Having said that, the garden is still a mess and the bathroom is still in progress but progress has been made on both fronts. In fact, HOURS and DAYS have been spent trying to get both finished before we take off for primavera in Italia. We are leaving later this spring than we have before but we are also staying later than usual. Our departure date is April 27 and we will return June 23. We are mentally ready to leave NOW. I keep looking at the weather in Lucca and seeing high temperatures in the low 60s. It just makes me ache to be there. Even worse is seeing the pictures posted on the other expats in Italy blogs I follow. However, one of the advantages of arriving around May 1 is that the weather should be quite nice by then. We are really looking forward to being there into June when many of the local sagre (festivals) take place as well as being in Partigliano for the local marcia podistica (organized walk).

Spring is coming slowing to the Puget Sound region. Again this weekend the temperatures have been cold. Yesterday it rained steadily but today is a classic March beauty. The skies are blue with only a ruffle of puffy white clouds hanging over the Olympic Mountains. This morning the snow level was quite low but now the sunshine has melted whatever was clinging to the lower slopes. There is a crisp breeze blowing from the north. Lots of birds, mostly robins and juncos, are chirping and fluttering about. Daffodils are nodding graciously and the grape hyacinths are poking their heads above ground. A few days ago I saw that a chipmunk making a mad dash across our parking area and later another one was up on the deck circling the Swiss chard pot. It looks like it should be warmer than it actually is but winter does not want to let go this year.

A few days ago we had a brilliant sunset and I caught this picture of a tug and barge heading north.


After enduring an exceptionally dry January and February (which meant little new snow in the mountains), March has been an excellent month fro skiing. We missed the best weekend of the year (3/7-8) because of other commitments but managed to ski three days at Alpental since then. Last weekend we took my brother’s Charlie’s children, Dano, Kate and Peter, up to my parents’ ski cabin with us. Dano and Kate skied on Saturday and Sunday with Dom and I. On Sunday, Charlie skied with us as well. It was a lot of fun and both the conditions and the weather cooperated pretty well. Peter, the youngest, has thus far refused to learn to ski but I decided that next time he will be forced to participate in the traditional family activity!


Dano and Kate on the hill.


Cool kids after playing out in the snow.

Just to prove progress is being made on the bathroom here are a couple of pictures taken yesterday. I was really thrilled to finally get to the tiling. It is something I actually enjoy doing. Taping and applying the joint compound to the wallboard turned out better than I expected. It is one of those tasks best left to the professionals but I managed to whine my way through it. The reference book we used (Drywall by Myron R. Ferguson) really helped. After sanding the joint compound I applied three coats of primer/sealer followed by two coats of paint. The yellow turned out to be a bit brighter than we anticipated but the addition of white tile in the tub surround, darker tile on the floor and dark cabinets should tone it down a bit. Also the bare bulbs tend to give any paint job a harsh aspect. We really like the way the white subway tile is turning out. The row of accent tile was hand carried from Italy five or six years ago. Nineteen pieces were left over from our bathroom redo and we could not foresee another use for it there. So, two houses later on this side of the Atlantic, we are finally attaching it to a wall. Dom jokes that the entire bathroom was planned around that tile and there is some truth to that.




Of course, the two end walls of the tub surround still need to be tiled plus the floor. Dom needs to install the tub faucet, drain, and shower head. Then the toilet, vanity, linen cabinet, lights and towel bars will be hung. After completing a whole laundry list of other items we hope to have it completely finished by the time we leave in four weeks.

One of the things I am really missing about Italy right now is the food. In particular I miss the handful of favorite restaurants we patronize there. Eating out on Whidbey Island is a bit of a dicey proposition. While there are a number of good, inexpensive spots we find we do not eat out as often here as we do while in Italy. Even what I cook at home does not seem quite the same. As I have said before, American ingredients do not taste the same as Italian ingredients. Insalata caprese (sliced tomatoes and fresh mozzarella) is nearly impossible to duplicate here. Pork chops taste better over there and veal chops are available without going to a specialty store. Let’s not even talk about pizza. I dream of sitting at Ristorante La Fonte waiting for the pizza maker to pull the crisp, bubbly confection from the depths of the wood fired oven…


Brasato

This recipe is a classic winter dish. It seems like I should be doling out springtime recipes but this has been promised to a number of people. It is a fabulous option for feeding a crowd or it makes a wonderful meal to eat now and freeze some leftovers. It is actually better if it is made ahead and the reheated.

1 750ml. bottle hearty red wine (such as Cabernet, Zinfandel or Syrah)
3 Tbs. olive oil
2 3 lb. beef chuck pot roasts
1 large onion, chopped
1 large carrot, chopped
1 large stalk celery, chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled, smashed
1 heaping Tbs. tomato paste
1 14 oz. can beef broth
2 large sprigs fresh sage
2 large sprigs fresh parsley
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp. whole black peppercorns

Preheat oven to 300ºF and adjust rack to lower third.

Simmer wine in large saucepan over medium heat until reduced to 1 cup, about 30 minutes.

In a heavy, wide, ovenproof pot heat oil over medium heat. Sprinkle roasts with salt and pepper. Add 1 roast to pot and cook until brown on all sides, about 13 minutes. Transfer to large plate; repeat with remaining roast. Spoon fat from pot.

Add onion, carrot, celery and garlic to pot. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sauté over medium-high heat until vegetables begin to brown, about 6 minutes. Add tomato paste, stir 1 minute. Add broth; bring to boil. Add sage, parsley, bay leaf and peppercorns. Return roasts and any accumulated juices to pot, tucking roasts to fit in single layer. Pour reduced red wine over; cover.

Transfer roasts to oven and braise 1 hour 15 minutes. Turn roast over. Cover and braise until roasts are tender, about 1 hour 15 minutes longer.

The original recipe I used stopped here. I usually do the following:

Refrigerate overnight. Next day, remove roasts and all solid fats. Put juices and vegetable bits in a blender and mix until smooth. Transfer to a saucepan and make gravy using several tablespoons flour and water combined into a smooth paste. Return roasts to original pot, cover with gravy and heat in oven until hot.

I usually serve with roast vegetables (potatoes, onions, parsnips, carrots, Brussel sprouts, etc.—any combination tossed in olive oil, salt and pepper—roasted at 450ºF for 30 minutes or until potatoes are crispy at edges).

This also works well in a crock pot adjusting the liquids as necessary.

Winter Activity

I cannot believe it has been over a month since my last post! It must mean Dom and I have been really busy. It has felt like that but it does not seem like we have much to show for it.

After a very cold, snowy, wet December and early January, the weather here has been very dry. For several weeks there was often light cloud color (similar to the above photo of freighter moving new cranes to Seattle waterfront) but lately it has been clear. This has made for great gardening weather but not so good skiing weather. The clear weather means the mornings are cold and crisp and the afternoons are positively balmy. Today they are expecting a high of around 60 degrees in Seattle. Here on Whidbey Island it will not get that hot but I still plan to move the patio furniture out of the garage and onto the deck. Usually we leave it out there all winter but it never made it back after the big painting project last August.

The local wildlife has been more active the past few weeks. We see deer frequently along the sides of the roads. Signs of smaller creatures (chipmunks and rabbits) are evident in the garden, i.e. nibbled plants. There seem to be dozens of bird species flitting about.

This is the time of the year when the bald eagles seem to be most active. I think they are mating, nest building and staking out territory. Yesterday, two or three were chirruping away, gliding from tree to tree and generally having a jolly time. Actually, their chirruping cries almost sound like whining. After a while it can be rather grating. One of my favorite sights is the eagles flying along the water's edge. Since our house is situated on top of a bluff they are often below the level of the windows and deck. They are really spectacular in flight.

On Wednesday I went to the Northwest Flower and Garden Show. It was spectacular as always but it is sad that this might be the show's last year. Hopefully someone will buy it from the retiring owners. There is always lots of inspiration. I have been wanting to put a fountain in similar to those above but only a single, much shorter column. I have the perfect spot for it at one end of our new flagstone patio so I am starting to gather the materials. We will see how it turns out.

This is a picture of our 16 ft. car trailer. When I started pruning a few weeks ago it was empty. Now I actually have several satellite piles. Pretty soon we will have to make another dump run. One would think that with over an acre of land we would have some place to put all this but really we don't. Yesterday I was carefully cutting out blackberry brambles (the really big, thick stalk ones) and dabbing vine killer on the cut ends. I am hoping this treatment stops them dead or at least slows them down considerably. It is impossible to totally eradicate them and they make one a believer in the idea that vines will take over the earth one day.

The bathroom project is coming along. Believe it or not, the righthand photo shows considerable progress but most of it is hidden under the floor. Dom spent a lot of time "down under." He actually cut a hole in the floor to make it easier to access the crawl space. He is now working on the electical items (lights, fans, outlets). Once that is done it will be on to wallboard. The photo on the left shows the current location of the new bathtub. I might have to plant something around it if it stays there too long.

Here is one of my current favorite recipes. It is a tomato tapenade/bruschetta topping that is really easy to make and easy to adjust to personal taste. It makes a lot but seems to keep in the fridge for a couple weeks. I have also frozen it successfully.

My favorite way to eat it is with crispy toast rounds made from a narrow whole wheat baguette. I slice the bread thin, lay the rounds on a cookie sheet, drizzle them with a little olive oil and put them in a 450 degree oven for about 7-8 minutes. Then I turn the rounds over and bake for another 4-5 minutes until well browned. Let cool and store in a plastic bag. For Pacific Northwest residents: Fred Meyer sells bags of day old, pre-sliced rounds. They are a little thicker than I like but buying the baguettes already sliced take most of the work out of making them.

Other ways to use this is as a pasta sauce (add olive oil) or on top of other vegetables (hot or cold). I also like to roast eggplant rounds (similar to doing toast above) and for lunch I top with a teaspoon of the bruschetta topping.

Easy Bruschetta Topping

1/2 to 3/4 cups raw onion

1-2 cloves garlic (or more!)

1 can quartered artichoke hearts, drained

1 small can black olives or about 1/2 cup pitted olives (any variety)

1 to 1 1/2 cups grilled peppers (I usually make my own but can be purchased in jars)

1 can fire roasted diced tomatoes

optional: 1 green pepperoncino or up to 1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes

Puree everything in a food processor. I start with the hardest items (onion/garlic) and work to the softest. Do not over process. Buon appetito!