A Day at the Cinqueterre

Too busy with our guests, Geri and Karen, to write much but here are photos from yesterday's excursion to the Cinqueterre.


We took the train from La Spezia to Vernazza and acted like tourists. Note the shopping bags.


Karen, Dom and Geri


View of Vernazza from the breakwater/pier.


The church and laundry hanging in Vernazza.


Hillsides above Vernazza are covered in terraced vineyards. The DOC Cinqueterre vino bianco is quite tasty.


Colorful fish boats in tiny Vernazza port.

Lovely Madonna icon in Vernazza's Santa Margherita church.

Looking back at Montarosso, the most northerly and largest of the Cinqueterre towns.

Another view of the craggy terrain.

Town of Riomaggiore from boat we took from Vernazza. The former is the most southerly of the towns.

We are off to see the Giro d'Italia this afternoon!

Sightseeing with Guests

Geri and Karen in Piazza Anfiteatro


Duomo di Lucca - San Martino

Guest arrived on Monday so it has been a busy few days. Yesterday, we went into Lucca and picked up their rental car. Dom left for a little time at home senza le donne (without the women!). Meanwhile, Geri, Karen and I did Lucca. We mostly strolled and window shopped, had lunch and gelato. On the way home we stopped at the supermercato but did not feel like cooking when we got home. So went for pizza at La Terrazza.

Today they ventured off on their own to Siena. Dom and I did some work inside and outside. After lunch we have mostly hid inside as it is REALLY hot today. At 6 pm I think it is time to venture outside again while I wait for the guests to return.

Tomorrow I am going to be tour guide to the Cinqueterre.

Another Sunday, Another Marcia Podistica

View down into the valley from marcia route.


Display of classic cars and scooters near partenza.



Heading towards the refreshment stop.

This morning Dom slept in while Mary Caselli and I went to this morning’s marcia podistica. We met in Valdottavo and headed up the Serchio Valley. It was another beautiful day and even at 7 am it was quite warm.

We both had looked at the map so thought we knew where we were going, the town of Tereglio. We did, sort of. As we got close to where we thought the turn up into the hills should be we were surprised not to see more traffic. We tried one road and then decided it must not be right. So we went a little further up the valley. Not too much further we decided we had gone to far and turned around. I spotted a uniformed (e.g. dressed in what looked to be a marcia podistica group track suit) gentleman turn up the first road we had tried so we followed him. He seemed to know where he was going, barreling up the narrow lane. Then suddenly he stopped at a wide spot. We pulled along side his car and asked if he was going to Tereglio. He nodded and took off again. Mary and I were totally flummoxed as to whether or not he knew where he was going but we started to go after him. Just then I saw a sign indicating we were on the road to a B&B in Tereglio. Yeah!

Not much further on, we saw parked cars along the side of the road. We parked behind the guy we had been following and started hiking up the road. It must have been a good half kilometer to the partenza (start), all uphill, so we arrived already warmed up and a bit out of breath. After paying our €2 entry feel, Mary and I trekked through the five kilometer route in short order. The walk itself was downhill first and then uphill. Tereglio is an old town perched on the edge of a ridge. However, it looked like most of the houses were occupied and it was all clean and tidy. Often there was a wonderful view out across the wooded hills and valleys. At one point we passed a HUGE derelict villa. It was big enough to be renovated into a hotel but it really is in the back of beyond.

When we finished we nibbled on some aged pecorino in olive oil (interesting combination), a little cold tea, cookies and bread and olive oil. The premi (prizes) were the classic can of tomatoes, a bag of pasta and a small box of milk. Erina gave me a receipt and cards for the memberships we paid for last week. We are now officially part of Gruppo Sportivo di Partigliano!

I spent the afternoon baking and fixing farro salad for tomorrow’s lunch. Late in the afternoon Dom and I went out and traced part of the route for Friday’s Giro d’Italia stage. We are going to try and go see the cyclists ride by and we were trying to figure out where to station ourselves. It was still so warm when we got back that we ate our dinner (cold salmon salad and focaccia) on the patio. A little buggy but a citronella candle kept the worst of them at bay.

We have guests coming tomorrow so who knows how often I will get posts made for the next ten days.

Viareggio Yachts

Beyond the yachts in the water, you can just see an equally large boat being built inside the huge shed.


This sailboat is so large I could get either all the hull or all the mast, but not both. in the picture.

The sailboat is so large it has a special hatch on the bow for storage of a small motor boat.

From the ruckus going on it looks like they were just turning the boat around to continue working on it.

Not all the yachts are supersized.

Not all the yachts are in the water.

A view across one of the inner basins of the port.

Viareggio is a major player in the world luxury yacht business. There are numerous builders who also do a huge business in refitting and repair. Lots of yachts winter there and this time of year, in anticipation of the summer cruising season, many of the boats are undergoing work.

While Dom wandered around the streets to the south of the port peaking in the open doors of the workshops, I walked over to take a quick look at the shoe and clothing stores that line the “boardwalk” north of the port. On my way over there I took these pictures of the yachts and the activity going on around them. My dream is to someday cruise the Mediterranean on one of these giant sailboats, along with a full crew of course!

The Versilian Coast

Where the marbles come from


Miles and miles of sandy beach.


I Pescatori at the end of the pier.

Today we drove over to the Versilian coast for lunch by the sea. It was another beautiful morning and after a few chores we were ready to go. Our route took us to Carrara via the autostrada. Once at Marina di Carrara we drove south towards Viareggio. We stopped at our favorite seaside restaurant, Oscar’s, for a seafood lunch. Dom had a tuna pizza that was REALLY good. My seafood spaghetti and salad were also tasty.

After eating we walked over to the pier that juts out into the sea. It is a great spot to get a good view back at the mountains and the beach. The light today made the marble quarries really stand out. It still looks like snow to me and makes me think about skiing. Only when you get up close can you tell that it is just all white rock. The beach, which runs for miles and miles, was pretty deserted today although a few hardy souls were sunning and swimming. In the summer it is wall to wall beach chairs, beach umbrellas and sunbathers. While eating lunch we saw four young men jumping off the pier into the water and then swimming to shore.

Our way home we stopped in Viareggio. Dom looked around the cantiere (the boatyards) while I walked over to look into the shop windows. More on Viareggio tomorrow.

Held Up By Biker Gang!

We went out tooling around the countryside this afternoon. On our way back to the house we ended up in a queue of cars behind a group of cyclists. As is common in Italy they were all dressed like they were taking part in the Giro d'Italia. There were about ten of them and they managed to spread themselves out such that none of the following cars could get by on the winding road. The parade continued for several kilometers until we reached the town of Fornoli. All the cars between us and the cyclists peeled off and we were able to get past them not long after that.

Groups of road cyclists are a common site in Italy when the weather is good, especially in May when the Giro is taking place. This is the Italian version of the Tour de France and it started last Saturday. Today was the fifth stage. For the first time Lance Armstrong is taking part but he probably will not be a factor. At the moment he is 22nd in the general standings. An Italian Danilo de Luca is wearing the leader's maglia rosa (pink jersey). On May 22nd the day's stage will come quite close to us, going from Lido di Camaiore to Florence via Lucca. We might go stand on the road and watch the cyclists go by. It finishes on May 31st in Rome.

Wildlife Report

Italian gecko


Squeak the cat

We were happy to see our kitty friends soon after we arrived. Both Squeak and her all black friend were soon at our kitchen door asking for a handout. As we had no cat food I gave them a little cheese until I was able to pick up some kibble. Now they show up almost every morning. In fact, Squeak is usually laying in the sunshine up on the knoll outside our house when we wake up. Then she hangs out around the house most of the day. Sometimes she follows me around when I am working around the patio or hanging laundry. Her plaintive meowing sounds like a squeaky wheel, hence her name.

The birds are in full throat every day. We hear the cuckoos but never see them. There are also lots of other birds chirping and chittering. The sparrows are nesting in a cavity in our neighbors' wall again. It is near one of their third floor windows. Often they sit on the edge of the windowsill or the copper gutter or the cable running from the television antenna on the roof chirping away. We also see lots of swallows this time of year. They swoop and dive around the patio often coming quite close to our heads! If we think about it we also hear a number of roosters although mostly they fade into the background. When we first had the house they would wake us up around 4:30-5 am. Now we hardly ever notice them.

There are a number of geckos running around on the stone walls and the cement patio. One climbed on a rock this afternoon and posed for the above picture. They have quite bright coloring this time of year--black with bright green diamonds. In the fall they are duller--a brownish grey color.

In the evening we can look out the windows and see a lot of fireflies. They still fascinate me since I grew up in the Pacific Northwest where they are not common. Last night there were so many of them they really looked like twinkle lights strung across the fields.

Can't say our life is terribly wild this week. It is mostly work and relaxing. Really, really nice!

I Pescatori (The Fishermen)

Mary Caselli and Bob Ziehl joined Dom and I on the walk this morning.



Fishermen hauling their gear to their spots around the fake lake.



Closer view of one man's gear.

Another beautiful day—the weather lately has been nearly perfect. We got up early and did another marcia podistica this morning. This one, at San Cassiano a Vico, is one of my favorites partly because it is close and partly because the route is flat. One of the interesting things we saw was all the pescatori (fishermen) arriving and setting up at a pair of “fake” lakes along the walk. The artificial lakes are privately owned, stocked with fish and the fishermen pay an entry fee to try their luck. We were all amazed at the amount of gear the men had with them. It seemed like a lot of stuff to pursue the wily fish but as with most sportsmen it is often more about the gear and the process than the outcome.

Later we had lunch on the patio, watched the Formula 1 race and relaxed in the afternoon. This evening we went out for pizza with Bob and Joy. They leave on Tuesday for nearly a month back in the U.S. Their oldest daughter is marrying her Italian boyfriend. What fun for them!

Auto Swap Meet in Florence and Lunch in Fiesole

Swap meet poster


Ferrari 355

All sorts of scooters

In one of the classic car magazines that Dom buys over here he saw a notice for a Scambio auto - moto e ricambi d’epoca (classic car/motorcycle/parts swap meet) in Florence this weekend. The event was held under part of the grandstand at the main soccer stadium. We left the house early, stopped for cappucini and pastry at the bar here in Partigliano and made it there by about 9:30. It was another beautiful day and we really enjoyed the drive along the autostrada through the countryside, especially the area around Pistoia and Prato where there are miles of plant nurseries. One in particular, Rose Barni (Barni Roses), was spectacular—acres of flowering plants in a rainbow of colors.

The swap meet was a much smaller version of the ginormous show we saw last fall in Padova. Nonetheless there were some interesting vehicles. Dom was particularly taken with a Ferrari 355. There was also a variety of motorcycles, scooters, and cars in various stages of repair and disrepair. Lots of parts, tools, magazines, clothes and other motor head paraphernalia were also offered for sale. We saw serious buyers who had small carts to haul off their finds as well as other looky-lous like us. Although I think Dom would have really liked to take the Ferrari home.

A mob of tourists at Fiesole

Roman amphitheater

Arches from Roman bathes framing Fiesole church tower

It was such a small show that we had seen it all by 10:30 am. We decided to drive up to the town of Fiesole in the hills to the north of Florence. It had been about seventeen years since we had been there and the last time the weather was not good. We zoomed up the hill to the small town and found parking near the archeological park and museum. So that seemed like the thing to do. We spent about an hour there looking at the museum exhibits—Etruscan, Roman and Longobard artifacts—and then walked around the park that includes the remains of a Roman amphitheater, baths and temples. It was warm and sunny with a slight breeze. As we strolled we could smell the scent of early flowering jasmine. It was darn near idyllic except for the tourists (we have met the enemy and he is us!). There was about sixty Americans (mostly teens, either high school or college) touring the sight with a guide. Most of them were more interested in taking pictures of each other in front of every piece of stone in the park. They were quite amusing to watch. Dom got a kick out of the fact that one of them said, “Buongiorno” to us as we walked through the group. Did they think we were Italian!?!?

After we finished at the park we walked up the hill in Fiesole looking in the shop windows and searching for a place for lunch. In the end we went back to the main piazza and sat outdoors at Bar Blu. It has a fabulous view of the city of Florence. Spread below us we could see the Duomo and the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio. We had a light lunch before heading back to the car and making our way back home.

After our busy morning we returned to the house and just vegged. Late in the afternoon I sat on the patio reading in the sunshine. It is about 7 pm before the sun drops below the hills so it stays quite pleasant outside well into the evening. Nonetheless, the inside of the house is still quite cold. I can hardly wait until the walls warm up and the house is as pleasant inside as outside.

Facciamo le spese (Running Errands)

The new Permesso di Soggiorno with its fancy sleeve.


Dom admiring an old but immaculate Moto Guzzi parked in front of a shop in Borgo Giannotti.

Yesterday was a day of running errands. In the morning we had a 9 am appointment at the Lucca Questura to pick up our new Permessi di Soggiorno (long stay permits). We arrived a little after the hour and got in line about 5 people back. Amazingly the line moved quite quickly. Within twenty minutes we had our shiny new cards in hand and were on our way to the next stop. Since we renewed our PdiS two years ago they have implemented a new system. Now they give you a credit card type document covered with interesting looking holograms and embedded information. They will certainly be easier to carry than a thick full size document. The latter made quite a wad when folded up and stuck inside our passports.

After that we went to Borgo Giannotti so Dom could get a haircut. I walked over to the post office to mail a card and then wandered around the area until I came across Dom. Our next stop was Media World for new CDs. Then we went to Flash Computer to sign up for ADSL (DSL service). Yes, we plan to finally spring for high speed internet. It has been available here in the village for at least a year but we kept thinking the house would sell so… Unfortunately, the person we needed to speak with was not there so we needed to go back in the afternoon.

Of course, now that we have signed up for it the house will probably sell right away. Things are picking up on the house sale front. We have had one showing since we came back and we hear that the market is heating up.

The weather was high overcast but it was warm enough for lunch on the patio. Dom found a problem with the bathroom sink plumbing so he worked on that while I caught up on email. Later we went out again. Back to Flash Computer, a stop at a real estate office in Ponte a Moriano and then on to the ferramenta in Diecimo for a plumbing part. They did not carry it so we went on to Ghivizzano to a plumbing supply store.

Back at the house Dom made the repair while I called my mother for a nice chat. We had a quiet evening in.

Mowing the Meadow

A completed terrace with the unmown grass around the vines and on the right the next terrace to be done.


One stripe done on the next terrace.


Pit stop--Dom refueling my vehicle.

A close-up of some of the many wildflowers among the grass.

Tuesday was another busy day. We used the cutter bar mower to cut ALL the terraces in one day! I steered it around for about half the job and then Dom completed it. Now he has about two days with the strimmer (string trimmer/weedwacker/friulino) to cut the banks and around the trees and vines. Then we need to rake it all and burn it. If the weather holds, we might have the job done in another week. Yeah!

Before we started the terraces looked like lush meadows—lots of different grasses mixed with a dozen different types of wild flowers and clover. It was about two feet tall in most places. As I walked behind the mower it smelled like I was mowing an herb garden. The grassy scent was overpowered by perfume of mint and oregano. One of our neighbors started burning grass he had cut earlier. The herby smoke always reminds me of the scent of marijuana!

The birds really love the mown terraces. Suddenly they can reach the ground and, especially in the morning, they flit around poking and pulling at the worms and creatures hidden in the dirt.

Tuesday evening Mary, Orlando, Bob and Joy came for dinner and we all celebrated Cinco de Mayo. It was a communal effort and we enjoyed Corona beer, margaritas, chips, salsa and quacamole followed by chicken and spinach enchiladas, black beans and salad with tomato, green onion, black olives and sweet corn. For dessert we had flan (crème caramel custard) and strawberries. The margaritas, made according to the package directions, were REALLY strong. My one glassful must have had about three shots of tequila in it. It took me the rest of the evening to recover!

Italian Oddities

A few things you don't see everyday in Italy, or anywhere for that matter!


Steam train at Fornaci di Barga station. According to placard on side it came from La Spezia via Viareggio and Lucca. We saw it at about 5 pm when it was loading up for the return journey.


Scottish pipe leading a rock band! They were playing at the festa at Fornaci on Sunday afternoon. They were actually very good.

Sunday Marcia Podistica at Camigliano

View from hills above Camiglian0



Roadside shrine



Lovely farm complex

Bob and Joy at Villa Torrigiani

So picturesque!

On Saturday we made plans to meet with Mary, Bob and Joy and go to the marcia podistica at Camigliano on Sunday. Yesterday was a beautiful morning and we are still in the grip of jet lag so getting up for a 6:45 am rendezvous was easy. Dom and I sort of knew the way to Camigliano but Mary was sure of where it was so we made it there in good time. By 7:15 am we were on the course.

It was a steady uphill climb for the first half of the 5 km. walk but that allowed for some lovely views of the area east of Lucca. Mary and I had outpaced the others (huff puff huff) as we climbed but we waited for Joy, Bob and Dom at “the top” and the group mostly stayed together the rest of the way. The entire route was picturesque but some spots were particularly lovely. Bob and Joy wanted a picture of themselves in front of the Villa Torrigiani so I obliged. When we finished walking there was there was the usual hot (too sweet) tea, wine and water, toasted bread topped with oil, garlic and vinegar and cookies. The premi (prizes) were bottles of laundry soap and small cartons of milk. Anything is better than more pasta! The five of us carpooled so on the way back to Vinchiana, where we met, we stopped for cappuccini and pastry at Bar Europa. By then, 9:15 or so, the morning was quite warm and we clustered around a small outdoor table enjoying our second breakfast.

Later in the day Dom and I made a quick trip to Fornaci di Barga for their annual May Day festival. We toured the usual cars and tractors before heading back to the house. About 7 pm, Steve and Carol, the prospective owners of the old mill down the hill, their son Jack and Steve’s brother Mick came for drinks and nibbles. After a tour of their house we sat on the patio and chatted for a quite a while. I took Carol up to see Erina and Bruno’s casa di vacanza as they might want to stay there in the future. After our company left, Dom and I faded rather quickly. We skipped dinner and just snacked a little more. In the end, we stayed up until about 10:30 but we were both dozing in front of the television by that time.

More Chores, More Sunshine

Squeak the cat lounging in the newly cut grass


Sunshine on the patio!


The irises and roses are the only plants that survived the winter.

Our long nap yesterday made for a poor night’s sleep. We were both awake shortly after 3 am. Dom finally got up about 5 am but I took a little chemical assist and managed a few more hours.

Yesterday and today we discovered that our favorite gatti (cats) not only survived the winter but expected to be fed. They were right at the kitchen door this morning begging but there was no cat food until later.

By 9 am we had eaten breakfast and Dom was off to the strimmer repair shop in Valdottavo for a part. He was back in about half an hour. I took the car and went to Esselunga for more groceries. The store had seemed incredibly crowded on Thursday but this morning it was as full as I have ever seen it. A good half the time I spent there was simply trying to maneuver in the aisles.

Back at the house Dom had finished cutting the grass around the house. I pulled the weeds and dead vegetation out of the patio planters before sweeping the entire patio area. By the time I finished it was time for a shower and lunch.

We ate on the patio in the hot sunshine. A good breeze kept it manageably cool otherwise it would have been too much heat. However, it feels wonderful to sit outside in shorts and a sleeveless t-shirt after the long, cold winter on Whidbey Island. If it weren’t for the threat of massive sunburn and the need for a short nap I would still be out there listening to the chorus of strimmers and birds, inhaling the smell of fresh cut grass and soaking up the rays.

Dinner at home and an early night.

First Day Back - Not La Dolce Vita

Walking at Montemagno, LU

Even though we slept well our first night at the house, we were still awake by 4 am. About 6 am we decided to get up and go to the marcia podistica at Montemagno. It was another beautiful day and by the time we reached the start of the walk the chill air was turning balmy. It was fun to see our friends Erina, Antonio, Desi, Eni and all the rest of the Unione Sportivo di Partigliano group. They were excited to see us and the learn that we plan to stay long enough to help put on the Partigliano marcia on June 21. Many hands make light work!

We stopped at Bar Bini in Diecimo for coffee and pastry and then went home to start work. Dom got the strimmer running and eventually cut about half the grass in the vicinity of the house. Unfortunately a part broke on the strimmer so he had to stop for the day.

Meanwhile, I dusted and vacuumed up all the dead insects in the house. It was not too onerous a task but certainly not la dolce vita. Fortunately, Dom’s strimmer breakdown occurred at a good hour for lunch. We ate in the sunshine on the patio, stayed outside for another hour or so before showering and napping for a few hours. We woke at 7:30 in time to go to our favorite local restaurant, La Fonte, for dinner.

La Fonte was really hopping last night. They had extra help on hand and a full house. The food was wonderful as always but the people-watching was equally as good. There were lots of family groups and a number of really adorable babies. We enjoyed our best meal since we arrived in Italy as well as the vibrant activity at the restaurant. It was about 11 pm when we arrived home. Jet lag once more overwhelmed us and it was off to bed.