Friday, May 29, 2009

Cinghiali!


Sample cinghiale!


Sagra poster


The sagra locale


The waiters

Last Thursday night, on our way back from dinner, we (Dom, Geri, Karen and I) surprised a group of cinghiali (wild boar) on the road from Valdottavo to Partigliano. Unfortunately we did not have a camera at the ready but the two adults looked somewhat like the above bruiser. There were also three little striped and spotted piglets. They were up on a sort of a ledge right near the road and in the light from the car's high beams looked like they were posing just for us. Dom stopped the car dead in the road and we all shrieked, squealed and pointed. The two sows looked at us briefly before trotting off into the woods with the piglets scrambling along behind.

Cinghiali are both a cultural phenomenon here and a pest. In the fall there are groups of hunters that go after them every weekend. We have sat on the patio in October and November listening to the cacaphony of hunters yelling, dogs barking and shotguns firing as the squadre (teams) bag 15-20 in a day. That sounds like numbers that could wipe out the population but the total cinghiali actually keep increasing every year.

Much like deer on Whidbey Island, the cinghiali are a menace to gardens and cars. They like to dig up roots so potatoes are favorite. The locals use fences around their orti (vegetable gardens)to keep them at bay. Some people hang little clumps of something they claim the cinghiali avoid to keep them away from their veggies. We have heard them on our property, especially at night, where they did quite a bit of damage last summer digging up a certain type of broad leaf weed in our fields. This spring we do not hear much of them as they seem to have eradicated that particular plant.
Although the ones we saw last week were our first glimpse of them, they are often hit by cars. As large as they are they often cause more damage to the vehicles than they receive. At any rate they do much the same as the deer--wander off into the woods after being hit so who knows what really happens to them.

On Sunday evening we went to the Sagra (Festival) dei Cinghiali in the town of Balbano. I was hoping it would be a sagra with music and dancing but it looked to be just food. Nonetheless, it was really tasty. We enjoyed papparadelle al cinghiale (wide ribbon pasta with tomato and boar sauce) and cinghiale in humido (stewed cinghiale). Dom also had some sausages--not cinghiale--that was really good. Geri and Karen enjoyed the look at a local sagra and the chance to try cinghiale. We finished up the evening with stops for gelato in Ponte a Moriano and drinks at the bar in our village.






Thursday, May 28, 2009

Grass, Grapes and Olives

Our guests left yesterday and, much as we enjoyed having them, it is lovely to be back to just the two of us and la dolce vita. Well, not so dolce because yesterday afternoon we had thunderstorms and some heavy rain. This is the first rain we have had since we arrived in Partigliano. So, this morning we rose at 6:15 and started burning the grass just after 7 am. It was a lovely morning. Within a couple of hours all the grass plus the vine clippings were on the pile.


Here is Dom dumping some of the last of the grass on the fire.


The heat, and yesterday's rain, have been great for the plants. I bought two strawberry plants soon after we arrived because I like the pale pink flowers. Now the plants are covered with ripening berries. Yummy!


While Dom was stoking the fire I finished pruning the vines. Here is a picture of one of the tidy rows. Because we arrived so late the plants were heavily overgrown. Although I cut them way back they still have 4 to 6 grape clusters each. Two to three times as much foliage went on the fire as was left on the vines. This is not the optimal way to care for the vines (they should have been pruned in Jan/Feb) but it is what we can manage only being here part-time.


The grape clusters are just starting to flower. Here are the buds before they open.


This is grape cluster that has started flowering. The flowers are tiny and the clusters look fuzzy after the buds open.


Interestingly, the olives also start out as clusters of tiny buds and then open to tiny flowers. They are somewhat larger than the grapes but, from a distance, the trees also look "fuzzy." There are also loads of flowers on the olive trees and the bees are buzzing around them happily pollinating. If we still own the house in the fall, and the weather cooperates, we could have a good harvest in November.




Saturday, May 23, 2009

Giro d'Italia

The Giro d'Italia came through Lucca yesterday. The stage started in Lido di Camaiore, on the coast, passed through Lucca before continuing on to Florence. This is the closest it has come to our house in the nine years we have been here so we thought we should take advantage of it and go see it.


Geri and Karen were interested in going so we packed up a picnic and went to the river park just outside Lucca. We arrived there about 1 pm and the riders were due to go right across this bridge at about 3 pm. We ate our lunch under some trees not far from here.


After lunch we strolled down Borgo Giannotti, a commercial street right outside the Lucca walls. Most of the shops were closed for their three hour lunch break but it looked like lots of the people who worked there were hanging out waiting for the cyclists to go by. Here is a banner saluting the Giro put up by the salumieria (salame shop) downstairs. More and more people gathered on the sidewalk but it was never too crowded.


At about 2:30 pm the police and emergency personnel started getting in position. Any large cycling race requires a lot of guys on motorcyles. Here are some of those that went ahead to make sure everything was set for the cyclists. We thought standing in the street where the riders had to turn was a good spot but all these guys ended up right in front of us.

I tried to take pictures of the three breakaway riders as they went past. Here's two of them. I really admire the camermen on the motorcycles. Can you see the one at the left side of the photo just behind the cyclist?

Geri and I moved down the street a ways where we had a clearer view. Here comes the main pack. It only took 30 seconds for over 175 riders to stream past us! They were about 2-3 minutes after the three breakaway riders and went by so fast it was impossible to tell who was who.


Here are more of them. Lance Armstrong is in there somewhere.


Finally the team cars streamed by.

It was lots of fun but when it was over it was over. Within seconds of the car with a big "end of race" sign on it (in Italian of course!) the spectators headed off to work, home or wherever. I think it was one of those things that was fun to see once in person but it is much more interesting watching the entire race on TV.
Today Geri and Karen have gone off to Florence on their own. Dom and I are doing chores around the house and relaxing.

Friday, May 22, 2009

A Day at the Cinqueterre

Too busy with our guests, Geri and Karen, to write much but here are photos from yesterday's excursion to the Cinqueterre.


We took the train from La Spezia to Vernazza and acted like tourists. Note the shopping bags.


Karen, Dom and Geri


View of Vernazza from the breakwater/pier.


The church and laundry hanging in Vernazza.


Hillsides above Vernazza are covered in terraced vineyards. The DOC Cinqueterre vino bianco is quite tasty.


Colorful fish boats in tiny Vernazza port.


Lovely Madonna icon in Vernazza's Santa Margherita church.


Looking back at Montarosso, the most northerly and largest of the Cinqueterre towns.


Another view of the craggy terrain.


Town of Riomaggiore from boat we took from Vernazza. The former is the most southerly of the towns.

We are off to see the Giro d'Italia this afternoon!

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Sightseeing with Guests


Geri and Karen in Piazza Anfiteatro


Duomo di Lucca - San Martino

Guest arrived on Monday so it has been a busy few days. Yesterday, we went into Lucca and picked up their rental car. Dom left for a little time at home senza le donne (without the women!). Meanwhile, Geri, Karen and I did Lucca. We mostly strolled and window shopped, had lunch and gelato. On the way home we stopped at the supermercato but did not feel like cooking when we got home. So went for pizza at La Terrazza.

Today they ventured off on their own to Siena. Dom and I did some work inside and outside. After lunch we have mostly hid inside as it is REALLY hot today. At 6 pm I think it is time to venture outside again while I wait for the guests to return.

Tomorrow I am going to be tour guide to the Cinqueterre.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Another Sunday, Another Marcia Podistica


View down into the valley from marcia route.


Display of classic cars and scooters near partenza.



Heading towards the refreshment stop.

This morning Dom slept in while Mary Caselli and I went to this morning’s marcia podistica. We met in Valdottavo and headed up the Serchio Valley. It was another beautiful day and even at 7 am it was quite warm.

We both had looked at the map so thought we knew where we were going, the town of Tereglio. We did, sort of. As we got close to where we thought the turn up into the hills should be we were surprised not to see more traffic. We tried one road and then decided it must not be right. So we went a little further up the valley. Not too much further we decided we had gone to far and turned around. I spotted a uniformed (e.g. dressed in what looked to be a marcia podistica group track suit) gentleman turn up the first road we had tried so we followed him. He seemed to know where he was going, barreling up the narrow lane. Then suddenly he stopped at a wide spot. We pulled along side his car and asked if he was going to Tereglio. He nodded and took off again. Mary and I were totally flummoxed as to whether or not he knew where he was going but we started to go after him. Just then I saw a sign indicating we were on the road to a B&B in Tereglio. Yeah!

Not much further on, we saw parked cars along the side of the road. We parked behind the guy we had been following and started hiking up the road. It must have been a good half kilometer to the partenza (start), all uphill, so we arrived already warmed up and a bit out of breath. After paying our €2 entry feel, Mary and I trekked through the five kilometer route in short order. The walk itself was downhill first and then uphill. Tereglio is an old town perched on the edge of a ridge. However, it looked like most of the houses were occupied and it was all clean and tidy. Often there was a wonderful view out across the wooded hills and valleys. At one point we passed a HUGE derelict villa. It was big enough to be renovated into a hotel but it really is in the back of beyond.

When we finished we nibbled on some aged pecorino in olive oil (interesting combination), a little cold tea, cookies and bread and olive oil. The premi (prizes) were the classic can of tomatoes, a bag of pasta and a small box of milk. Erina gave me a receipt and cards for the memberships we paid for last week. We are now officially part of Gruppo Sportivo di Partigliano!

I spent the afternoon baking and fixing farro salad for tomorrow’s lunch. Late in the afternoon Dom and I went out and traced part of the route for Friday’s Giro d’Italia stage. We are going to try and go see the cyclists ride by and we were trying to figure out where to station ourselves. It was still so warm when we got back that we ate our dinner (cold salmon salad and focaccia) on the patio. A little buggy but a citronella candle kept the worst of them at bay.

We have guests coming tomorrow so who knows how often I will get posts made for the next ten days.

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Viareggio Yachts


Beyond the yachts in the water, you can just see an equally large boat being built inside the huge shed.


This sailboat is so large I could get either all the hull or all the mast, but not both. in the picture.

The sailboat is so large it has a special hatch on the bow for storage of a small motor boat.

From the ruckus going on it looks like they were just turning the boat around to continue working on it.

Not all the yachts are supersized.


Not all the yachts are in the water.

A view across one of the inner basins of the port.

Viareggio is a major player in the world luxury yacht business. There are numerous builders who also do a huge business in refitting and repair. Lots of yachts winter there and this time of year, in anticipation of the summer cruising season, many of the boats are undergoing work.

While Dom wandered around the streets to the south of the port peaking in the open doors of the workshops, I walked over to take a quick look at the shoe and clothing stores that line the “boardwalk” north of the port. On my way over there I took these pictures of the yachts and the activity going on around them. My dream is to someday cruise the Mediterranean on one of these giant sailboats, along with a full crew of course!

Thursday, May 14, 2009

The Versilian Coast


Where the marbles come from


Miles and miles of sandy beach.


I Pescatori at the end of the pier.

Today we drove over to the Versilian coast for lunch by the sea. It was another beautiful morning and after a few chores we were ready to go. Our route took us to Carrara via the autostrada. Once at Marina di Carrara we drove south towards Viareggio. We stopped at our favorite seaside restaurant, Oscar’s, for a seafood lunch. Dom had a tuna pizza that was REALLY good. My seafood spaghetti and salad were also tasty.

After eating we walked over to the pier that juts out into the sea. It is a great spot to get a good view back at the mountains and the beach. The light today made the marble quarries really stand out. It still looks like snow to me and makes me think about skiing. Only when you get up close can you tell that it is just all white rock. The beach, which runs for miles and miles, was pretty deserted today although a few hardy souls were sunning and swimming. In the summer it is wall to wall beach chairs, beach umbrellas and sunbathers. While eating lunch we saw four young men jumping off the pier into the water and then swimming to shore.

Our way home we stopped in Viareggio. Dom looked around the cantiere (the boatyards) while I walked over to look into the shop windows. More on Viareggio tomorrow.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Held Up By Biker Gang!






We went out tooling around the countryside this afternoon. On our way back to the house we ended up in a queue of cars behind a group of cyclists. As is common in Italy they were all dressed like they were taking part in the Giro d'Italia. There were about ten of them and they managed to spread themselves out such that none of the following cars could get by on the winding road. The parade continued for several kilometers until we reached the town of Fornoli. All the cars between us and the cyclists peeled off and we were able to get past them not long after that.

Groups of road cyclists are a common site in Italy when the weather is good, especially in May when the Giro is taking place. This is the Italian version of the Tour de France and it started last Saturday. Today was the fifth stage. For the first time Lance Armstrong is taking part but he probably will not be a factor. At the moment he is 22nd in the general standings. An Italian Danilo de Luca is wearing the leader's maglia rosa (pink jersey). On May 22nd the day's stage will come quite close to us, going from Lido di Camaiore to Florence via Lucca. We might go stand on the road and watch the cyclists go by. It finishes on May 31st in Rome.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Wildlife Report


Italian gecko


Squeak the cat

We were happy to see our kitty friends soon after we arrived. Both Squeak and her all black friend were soon at our kitchen door asking for a handout. As we had no cat food I gave them a little cheese until I was able to pick up some kibble. Now they show up almost every morning. In fact, Squeak is usually laying in the sunshine up on the knoll outside our house when we wake up. Then she hangs out around the house most of the day. Sometimes she follows me around when I am working around the patio or hanging laundry. Her plaintive meowing sounds like a squeaky wheel, hence her name.

The birds are in full throat every day. We hear the cuckoos but never see them. There are also lots of other birds chirping and chittering. The sparrows are nesting in a cavity in our neighbors' wall again. It is near one of their third floor windows. Often they sit on the edge of the windowsill or the copper gutter or the cable running from the television antenna on the roof chirping away. We also see lots of swallows this time of year. They swoop and dive around the patio often coming quite close to our heads! If we think about it we also hear a number of roosters although mostly they fade into the background. When we first had the house they would wake us up around 4:30-5 am. Now we hardly ever notice them.

There are a number of geckos running around on the stone walls and the cement patio. One climbed on a rock this afternoon and posed for the above picture. They have quite bright coloring this time of year--black with bright green diamonds. In the fall they are duller--a brownish grey color.

In the evening we can look out the windows and see a lot of fireflies. They still fascinate me since I grew up in the Pacific Northwest where they are not common. Last night there were so many of them they really looked like twinkle lights strung across the fields.

Can't say our life is terribly wild this week. It is mostly work and relaxing. Really, really nice!

Sunday, May 10, 2009

I Pescatori (The Fishermen)


Mary Caselli and Bob Ziehl joined Dom and I on the walk this morning.



Fishermen hauling their gear to their spots around the fake lake.



Closer view of one man's gear.


Another beautiful day—the weather lately has been nearly perfect. We got up early and did another marcia podistica this morning. This one, at San Cassiano a Vico, is one of my favorites partly because it is close and partly because the route is flat. One of the interesting things we saw was all the pescatori (fishermen) arriving and setting up at a pair of “fake” lakes along the walk. The artificial lakes are privately owned, stocked with fish and the fishermen pay an entry fee to try their luck. We were all amazed at the amount of gear the men had with them. It seemed like a lot of stuff to pursue the wily fish but as with most sportsmen it is often more about the gear and the process than the outcome.

Later we had lunch on the patio, watched the Formula 1 race and relaxed in the afternoon. This evening we went out for pizza with Bob and Joy. They leave on Tuesday for nearly a month back in the U.S. Their oldest daughter is marrying her Italian boyfriend. What fun for them!

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Auto Swap Meet in Florence and Lunch in Fiesole


Swap meet poster


Ferrari 355


All sorts of scooters
In one of the classic car magazines that Dom buys over here he saw a notice for a Scambio auto - moto e ricambi d’epoca (classic car/motorcycle/parts swap meet) in Florence this weekend. The event was held under part of the grandstand at the main soccer stadium. We left the house early, stopped for cappucini and pastry at the bar here in Partigliano and made it there by about 9:30. It was another beautiful day and we really enjoyed the drive along the autostrada through the countryside, especially the area around Pistoia and Prato where there are miles of plant nurseries. One in particular, Rose Barni (Barni Roses), was spectacular—acres of flowering plants in a rainbow of colors.

The swap meet was a much smaller version of the ginormous show we saw last fall in Padova. Nonetheless there were some interesting vehicles. Dom was particularly taken with a Ferrari 355. There was also a variety of motorcycles, scooters, and cars in various stages of repair and disrepair. Lots of parts, tools, magazines, clothes and other motor head paraphernalia were also offered for sale. We saw serious buyers who had small carts to haul off their finds as well as other looky-lous like us. Although I think Dom would have really liked to take the Ferrari home.
A mob of tourists at Fiesole
Roman amphitheater
Arches from Roman bathes framing Fiesole church tower

It was such a small show that we had seen it all by 10:30 am. We decided to drive up to the town of Fiesole in the hills to the north of Florence. It had been about seventeen years since we had been there and the last time the weather was not good. We zoomed up the hill to the small town and found parking near the archeological park and museum. So that seemed like the thing to do. We spent about an hour there looking at the museum exhibits—Etruscan, Roman and Longobard artifacts—and then walked around the park that includes the remains of a Roman amphitheater, baths and temples. It was warm and sunny with a slight breeze. As we strolled we could smell the scent of early flowering jasmine. It was darn near idyllic except for the tourists (we have met the enemy and he is us!). There was about sixty Americans (mostly teens, either high school or college) touring the sight with a guide. Most of them were more interested in taking pictures of each other in front of every piece of stone in the park. They were quite amusing to watch. Dom got a kick out of the fact that one of them said, “Buongiorno” to us as we walked through the group. Did they think we were Italian!?!?

After we finished at the park we walked up the hill in Fiesole looking in the shop windows and searching for a place for lunch. In the end we went back to the main piazza and sat outdoors at Bar Blu. It has a fabulous view of the city of Florence. Spread below us we could see the Duomo and the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio. We had a light lunch before heading back to the car and making our way back home.

After our busy morning we returned to the house and just vegged. Late in the afternoon I sat on the patio reading in the sunshine. It is about 7 pm before the sun drops below the hills so it stays quite pleasant outside well into the evening. Nonetheless, the inside of the house is still quite cold. I can hardly wait until the walls warm up and the house is as pleasant inside as outside.
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