Thursday, July 19, 2012

Homeward Bound

On Wednesday morning everyone but Jack, Marion, Dom and I packed up and headed home. Their flight left Shannon Airport at the very civilized hour of 1 pm. So, the morning was not terribly rushed. Finally the big van was gone leaving the smaller SUV for the rest of us to take to the airport the next day.

After they departed we took for a drive in the countryside and lunch in Kilkee, a seaside village about 15-20 minutes away. We had a nice meal and a drive further south along cliffs similar to but much lower than the Cliffs of Moher.

We ate leftovers for dinner in an effort to use up some of the food remaining at the rental house.  It was a nice quiet day with plenty of time for getting things packed up ready to leave early the next morning.

The drive from Doonbeg to Shannon Airport was fairly easy now that we had figured out the right way to get there. On Tuesday, on our way to Bunratty which is not far from Shannon Airport, we took a much more scenic route. :-) 

We turned in the car and checked in at the airport. At check-in we learned that Shannon Airport is one of the few places outside the U.S. where there is U.S. Immigration and Customs preclearance, meaning we took care of all that before ever getting on the airplane. That made life a great deal simpler when we arrived in Newark on the way home.  However, it also meant Dom and I needed to really hurry. We said a hurried good bye to Mom and Dad (who were off to London later in the morning) and dashed for security.  It all worked out just fine and we were soon onboard.

We had one last look at the Irish countryside before heading east over the Atlantic.

The Sullivan Clan had done Ireland and we all had a lot of fun. It was certainly the trip of a lifetime. It was great to spend time with my parents and my siblings (Michael, we wish you had been there) and the kids. The kids had a chance to bond as young adults and learn more about their Irish heritage. We packed a lot into twelve days but there were no disasters and few real problems. Some of us had some recovering to do when we got home as we all ate and drank too much and quite a few of the wrong things.

Many, many thanks to my parents who made the trip possible. I am so appreciative that we got to do it.

I don't know about everyone else but I would do it again in a heartbeat (after a sufficient recovery period--those five extra pounds are sticking like glue). Next time though I would like it to be some place warmer. Italy anyone?

Limerick and Bunratty Castle

On Tuesday, our last full day before everyone but Jack and Marion and Dom and I left, we split into two groups. Mom still was not feeling well so everyone but the four of us (Jack, Marion, Dom and I) took the big van and went to the town of Limerick for some last minute shopping and lunch. The consensus was that Limerick was not worth a second visit.

About 3:30 in the afternoon we all met at Bunratty Castle and Folk Park outside Limerick. Jack had arranged for all of us to enjoy their Medieval Banquet. Before the banquet at 5:30 we explored the castle  and the Folk Park. The latter recreates rural and urban life in 19th Century Ireland and had furnished cottages, a village street, a church, a manor house, a mill and a lot of other buildings that we could walk through and see how people lived in a different era.

At 5:30 we went to the castle and stood in line. There was a bit of confusion because Jack did not know he was supposed to pick up tickets for the dinner at the entrance to the complex. A few phone calls were made and Jack charmed his way in without having to retrieve the tickets. As recompense for the delay, they asked if he and my mother wanted to be the evening's Earl and Countess. Of course Jack was thrilled and Marion resigned.

 The banquet started out in the great hall with glasses of mead (honey wine) for everyone.

 Marion and Dom waiting for the festivities to begin.

 Jack made friends with another American family.

 Finally the evening began with some welcome songs and...

 ...the crowning of the Earl and his Lady.  A brief video of the crowning is at the end of this post.

The nice thing about being with the Earl was we were led to a special table in the banquet hall before everyone else.

 The Earl got to sit in a big chair with a cushion. The rest of us sat on backless benches.

 At one point the Earl had to test the soup. He proclaimed it marvelous.

 The meal was quite good--soup, spareribs, roast chicken, potatoes, vegetables and dessert. There was also red wine, white wine and water. There were no forks, just knives and spoons. Luckily there were also finger bowls (especially nice after the sticky ribs) and lots of paper napkins.

 More potatoes?

 After dinner the tables were cleared and...

 ...there was entertainment. The musicians and singers were very good.


Here is the crowning of the Earl and his Lady.

On the whole, Bunratty Castle and Folk Park were a little cheesy but we enjoyed the evening. It was interesting and a lot of laughs.

The Cliffs of Moher and The Burren

On Monday morning everyone except my mother, who was not feeling well, piled into the two vehicles and drove north to visit the Cliffs of Moher. It is one of Ireland's premier tourist attractions and a UNESCO world heritage site. 

 Driving to the Cliffs you can see them from a long way away. Once you arrive there is not much to see except a large parking lot and the visitor center. The above photo is looking south from the Cliffs parking lot. There is a large bay to the south with a long sandy bay at its head at the town of Lahinch. It is a popular spot for surfing.

 The cliffs are over 600 feet high at their tallest point and run for 8 kilometers. They are truly a spectacular sight.

 In this photo you can see that the land on top of the cliffs just ends at the cliffs. There is no warning at all. There is a path along the cliffs and in some areas a wall keeping people from the edge. Nonetheless, people ignore the warning signs and there are deaths every year. There are also signs for a suicide prevention hotline all along the walk.

 This is looking south and on top of the headland you can see the tiny signal tower that is a twin to the one on Cape Clear Island.

To the north of the visitor center is a walk with steps leading up to O'Brien's Tower. It was built in 1835 to impress visitors to the sight. You can go to the top of the tower but it costs an additional 2 euros.

The Cliffs are nesting grounds for different species of birds. The water below is a restricted area for boats in order to protect the birds and sea life.

The views from the Cliffs are spectacular. You can see for many miles both north and south as well as out to the Aran Islands to the west.

 This is looking north from near O'Brien's Tower.

 Even the spots where the Cliffs do not drop off precipitously still look dangerous.

 Here is Jack at O'Brien's Tower. He wanted this picture for a friend of his named O'Brien.

 Like most places in Ireland, fascinating lichen grows on the stones that make up the fence between the walkway and the edge of the Cliffs.

 I think this picture is another taken from the Cliffs of Moher parking lot. To the left in the picture is the town of Lahinch. We went back there for lunch at a pub after our visit to the Cliffs.

After lunch we headed north again to the Burren. This is a karst landscape region located in northwest County Clare. It is approximately 250 square kilometers and as you drive into it the ground gets rockier and rockier.  Our first stop was in at the Caherconnel ring fort.

 Above is the interior of the ring fort. It is an active archaeological site and the yellow tape and roped off areas are sections where they are digging. 

 The ring forts, of which there are approximately 45,000 scattered around Ireland, were not strictly speaking defensive positions. Rather they were farmsteads. They were built between approximately the 5th and 10th centuries AD (early Medieval period). Above you can see a section of the wall where the gate would have been. They were constructed by stacking stones and infilling them with rubble.


The forts were circular. The above photo was taken outside the actual fort. On the right is the fort wall. On the left is a stacked stone wall to keep the people out of the fields where there are cows and sheep.

 The fields in the Burren are incredibly rocky. Thus, raising sheep and cattle were the only practical means of sustenance when the ring forts were built.

This shows how the ring fort might have looked when originally constructed.

After visiting the Caherconnell we drove up the road to the Poulnabrone Dolmen.  The dolmen was interesting and the site is well laid out. There are a number of information boards such as the one above that talks about karst landscapes.

 The dolmen is a portal tomb dating back to 2500 BC. It sits in the middle of an expanse of karst stone broken only by the grass and flowers growing in the channels that criss cross the landscape.

It almost looks like some sort of alien landscape.

 There are all sorts of indentations in the stone. The one above, that looks like it was made with a giant drill, is called a kamenitza.

 Nothing grows on top of the stone but the channels running through it capture dirt and seeds so there is grass and flowers in the indentations.

 Some of the depressions look quite deep.

 A park ranger told me that over 200,000 people visit the site each year. Unfortunately, it is prone to vandalism and the dolmen is in poor condition. He expects it will be gone in ten years.

 It is amazing that 4,500 years ago people could construct such a structure with very little in the way of tools.

 The kids  enjoyed the landscape. It rambled on and on like stepping stone in a stream but with no water.

It looks pretty inhospitable but people have lived here for thousands of years.

 Even Dom enjoyed exploring the landscape.

 Ferns and ivy growing in the rock channels.

Patty, Kate, Emily and I sent everyone else back to the house while we stopped at a grocery store for dinner. We got back to the house about 7:30 and had a peaceful dinner.


Baltimore to Doonbeg

On Friday night, after taking the ferry from Sherkin Island back to Baltimore, we stayed at Channel View B&B. Dom and I stayed there when we were in Baltimore four years ago and it is a wonderful spot if you are ever in the area. We had dinner that evening with Jack's cousin, Mary O'Neill, who is the only relative with whom the family has contact in Ireland. Most of the family emigrated so that is not unusual. Mary took us to a fabulous spot for dinner--Rolf's Country House. We had a lovely visit and a the food was delicious.

On Saturday morning we had a long drive from Baltimore to Doonbeg in County Clare were we had a house rented for the rest of our stay. The original plan was to stop at Muckross House Gardens and Traditional Farms. We did stop for lunch but everyone was eager to get to the house and settle in. It was an interesting drive through the steep craggy mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, between Kenmare and Muckross House even though it was rainy and dark.

At the Shannon Estuary we took the ferry from Torbert to Kilrush. It was a lot like riding any other ferry. If it had been nice it would have been fun to get out of the car but as it was it was raining pretty hard during our crossing so we just hunkered down.


This was the view from inside the car. The gentleman in the yellow coat came around and collected the fares from each vehicle during the crossing.

When we got to Kilrush we found ourselves in the flat farmland of County Clare. There were lots of cows around. At this point we were stopped by a herd being moved from the pasture to the milking barn. The farmer and his wife were quite amused by the tourists taking pictures of the cows in the road.

You can see the barn in the distance, the cows making their way placidly towards it and the dog making sure no one gets out of line.

We arrived at the house in Doonbeg. It looks almost white in this picture but is actually pale pink. The large windows are the living/dining/kitchen area.

The main door is set right in the angle of the house. It had three bedrooms downstairs (1 en suite) and a bathroom as well as the living/dining/kitchen area. Upstairs was a large, en suite bathroom and another bedroom. It was quite comfortable except for all the little things that went wrong--not enough towels, the dryer broke and there was a leak from the upstairs bathroom onto my parents' bed. The dishwasher also had  a problem but the guys were able to fix that.

The views from the house are wonderful. You could see across the bay to houses, farms and an old castle on the far shore.

You could also see the white sand beach at the head of the bay which attracted quite a few visitors on the weekend.
The living/dining/kitchen area was quite comfortable for our crowd of twelve. We could seat everyone around the big table.

The large television mounted on the wall in the corner could be seen from all over the room. That came in handy when we were watching the Euro Cup matches.

I took a walk with Patty and my Dad along the beach on Sunday. It was a nice day and we had scheduled it as a "lay day." Everyone slept in, ate a big breakfast, did laundry and relaxed.

The beach was lovely for walking and there were lots of interesting shells. There was also beach glass, something I rarely see on the beaches here on Whidbey Island.

This is a view looking back at the rental house and others on the road along the north side of the bay.

A closer view of some of the houses near our rental house.

After our beach walk, Patty and I continued on into the village of Doonbeg. This shows the old Doonbeg castle and the bridge in the middle of the village.

Patty and I explored the cemetery in the middle of the village. Many of the headstones dated to the mid 1800s. The soft stone had worn away and some were impossible to read.

Kathleen O'Donnell died in 2007 and her children are obviously devoted to her.

On our meanderings through town we found a pub, Tubridy's, where they turned on the Formula 1 race which the guys had not been able to get on the TV at the house. Unfortunately we forgot about the time difference so the race was nearly over by the time they got there. Nonetheless, most of the crowd felt it was a good excuse to go to the pub.

 The Guinness came with a shamrock in the foam on top. The pub was part of a restaurant and the owners were so nice that we decided to go there for dinner. We had an excellent meal there and another rollicking good time. 

This was taken on June 24th and Ireland is further north (about 53N) than Seattle (47.61N). It did not get dark until after 11 pm. It was probably about 10:30 when I took these photos. Above is the old Doonbeg castle.

 This is the Doonbeg river estuary.

This is cows in the field and the harbor beyond at sunset.

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