Secondo Giorno a Capri - Seconda Parte

After we left the belvedere at Certosa di San Giacomo we walked over to the Giardino di Augusto. From what I had read I expected an elegant garden but it the giardino turned out to be a city park. It was nice but awfully crowded.


The views from the giardino were spectacular. We could look back into the cloister at the monastary.



To the south we could see the faraglioni--two of the large rocks that emerge from the sea around Capri.



This lovely statue was the centerpiece of part of the gardens. It was a quiet spot away from the magnificent views. The landscaping was actually quite nice but it seemed secondary to the views.



From the garden we discovered the path built into the side of the cliffs that links Capri town and Marina Piccola. From the plaque we read it seems it was impossible to get directly from one to the other until the early years of the 20th century when this path was finished.



We decided to walk down the switchback path and find lunch at Marina Piccola. Our decision was made after we were assured there was a bus we could take back up from Marina Piccola.



Many of the buildings on Capri have a distinctly Greek look to them. Often the roofs are barrel shaped as can be seen on this building in Marina Piccola.



When we got down to Marina Piccola we found a bar at the bus turnaround and ate panini in the sunshine. Afterwards we walked down to the water's edge. It was rocky in spots but there was also a fairly large sandy beach. It turned out there were two or three bars right there with decks over the water.



There were actually quite a few people in the water swimming. The next time I am on Capri I want to eat down here and dip my toes in the water.



After lunch we took the bus back to Capri town where we transfered to a bus for Anacapri. When we got back to the hotel we went out on the upstairs terrace and looked for the sheep we thought we had heard our first night there as we arrived. In the field next to the hotel we discovered two large sheep taking their ease in the shade. They had a stone hut in which to get out of the weather and lots of green grass. This is a great example of the classic Italian mix of town and country. It is often hard to tell where one ends and the other begins.

Primo Giorno a Capri - Terza Parte

We ate lunch at a very busy spot where we had a lot of fun watching the tour groups come and go. German, French, English and American--they all came and went, eager for lunch and then stressed about missing the bus to the next sight. The food was nothing special but we enjoyed a nice local white wine from the slopes of Mt. Vesuvius.

Afterwards, we rode the chairlift to the top of Monte Solara.


Since they do not have to worry about snow underneath the chair it really is not that far off the ground. Going up was easy, just like going skiing.



At the top the attendants pretty much pull you out of the chair and off to one side.



Even at the top of Capri there were cats waiting for a handout.



The views were well worth the price of the ride.




There was quite an extensive network of paths and terraces at the top. In spots, the cliffs dropped straight down into the sea. In the above photo, the town of Capri can be seen at the other end of the island.

A small bar was there that served drinks, gelato and light meals. It looked like it was possible to arrange parties up there as there was a large room with a pizza oven underneath the bar.



Even at the top of Capri there was evidence of the ancient Romans.

In the distance we could see all of Naples and Vesuvius.

And in another direction the town of Capri and the Amalfi Coast.

For some reason right next to the bar was a goldfish pond. It had a lot of algae in it.

The fish would cluster near a shadow obviously hoping to be fed.



This video will show you some of the panoramic view from the top of Capri, Dom and some of the many tourists.

The ride back down was not as scary as I thought it might be. Here you can see the town of Anacapri and the island of Ischia in the background.

Our hotel was somewhere in the cluster of buildings on the far left in the middle.

Going down it was fun to look into the gardens below the lift. This one had a lot of "interesting" objects in it but looks like it has been neglected for some time.

This hovel looks like a good restoration project for someone.

After the chairlift ride we walked back to our hotel to relax before dinner. It was warm enough to read on the patio.

Primo Giorno a Capri - Seconda Parte

One of the most interesting things we saw in Anacapri was the church of San Michele.







This is what the floor looks like from ground level. You can see the wooden walkways that line the room so one can walk around and see the tiles up close.




This is what the floor looks like from the choir loft. They charge E2 to enter the church but it is well worth the price.



The main part of the picture depicts Adam and Eve being expelled from the Garden of Eden.






Here is the Tree of Knowledge with the serpent wrapped around its trunk. A variety of animals and birds are shown in minute detail.






Here is a closer shot of Adam and Eve.

Part of the background including and elephant.

This putti is actually part of the alter floor decoration.

In the main part of the floor there is even a cinghiale (wild boar) shown.

The church's alter, although ornate, seems almost plain compared to the floor. It is all done in different colors of marble.

In a small room off to one side was a display of presepio (nativity scene) accessories. These creations are a traditional Neapolitan craft. It is common to see the traditional nativity scene surrounded by these vignettes of Italian town and village life. There were about 50 of them all together. Above is a pescheria (fish seller).

Here is a vignette of someone selling all sorts of autumn fruits--chestnuts, mushrooms and nuts.

I really like maiolica work so the church of San Michele was an especially interesting find for me.

Primo Giorno a Capri - Prima Parte

Our first full day on Capri dawned brilliantly clear. It seemed fairly warm when we got up and stepped out onto our balcony.


This is the view from our balcony. In the distance you can see the island of Ischia. Ischia and Capri bracket the entrance to the Bay of Naples.


After breakfast at our hotel (the usual coffee or tea, rolls, and pastry) we set off to explore the sights of Anacapri. In spite of the internet promise of a 5 minute walk to the main part of town, our hotel was actuall a 10-15 minute walk to the town center. It was all up hill through narrow lanes such as the one above. There was actually a fair amount of traffic, mostly scooters and apes but the occasional car. I am sure that Caprese car buyers have to go looking with a tape measure in hand. It would never do to buy a vehicle that could not make it down the lane to one's house.




Like most towns in Italy, there were several parcheggi (parking areas). This one seemed to be only for scooters and motorbikes. While walking around on the day we left, we saw what seemed to be a two scooter family dropping the kids off at school. Dad had the boy with him while Mom had the daughter. When the kids hopped off the bikes they peeled off their helmets and tucked them into the bins on the back of the bikes.




Here is an actual street that passed right under someone's patio.

The church of Santa Sofia in the main part of Anacapri had a variety of different domes on it that could only be seen from the side of the building.

The front of Santa Sofia is lovely with a neat piazza in front of it. Early in the morning there were always a number of delivery vehicles parked in the pedestrian areas of Anacapri.

The church was lovely inside as well. This photo shows a modern baptismal font that incorporates a real seashell into an interesting pedestal of wrought iron.

The range of art within the church was quite broad. This is a centuries old pieta carved of wood and then painted. It was recently restored.

We meandered through the town in a direction we had not explored the night before. Most of the people on the streets early in the morning were locals out doing their shopping and chatting with their neighbors. At one alimentari (small food store) there was this marvelous display of spicy peppers. I loved the colors.

The base station of the chairlift that goes to the highest point on the island is right in the middle of Anacapri. In our meanderings we found a spot where we could watch people loading. It is a single chair and at times the lift attendants had to manhandle the passengers into their seats. It was pretty amusing.

We continued on to Villa San Michele. It was built by Dr. Axel Munthe, a Swedish medical doctor, animal lover and philanthropist from the beginning of the 20th century. The interior of the villa had interesting displays about Munthe's life but the gardens were really spectacular. Above is a covered arcade filled with statues and antique bits and pieces. Apparently, many pieces of ancient Roman structures were found when the villa was being built.

This fountain is off to one side of the arcade.

This is part of the old chapel in the gardens. On the back wall are embedded more Roman finds.

The villa and gardens are built right into the side of the mountain. Here is a picture of Dom admiring the view of Marina Grande and, in the distance, the Amalfi coast.

This statue of Saint Michael was tucked into a niche at the end of the walk along the cliff.

This old lion has a neverending view of Mt. Vesuvius.

During the morning the temperature dropped quite a bit. After visiting Villa San Michele we stopped at one of the many stores catering to tourists that line the lane between the villa and the bus drop off in Anacapri. I found a nice jacket that I put on immediately over the light sweater I was wearing. The combination kept me warm enough in the sun but it was till chilly in the shade. Dom and I found a table in the sun for "elevenses."

To be continued...