Friday, November 13, 2009

A Day in Florence Shopping

A week ago yesterday Arlene from New York/Vermont and I left the guys at home and went into Florence to do a little shopping. The weather did not look terrific when we left but we were lucky. It stayed fairly warm, dry and partly sunny while we were there.


We parked to the east of the Centro Storico (historic center) and walked to the Sant'Ambrosio market. I remembered it differently and am still not sure I was in the right spot. However, Arlene found a lovely reversable fur and leather coat for E65! It was used but in perfect condition and just her size. The stall had lots of other coats but I did not see anything to suit me. I am still not sure fur is quite my thing but I really covet something soft and warm. I did find some unusual purses and delicious truffle salami.


After exploring the market we began meandering through the town heading for Piazza della Signoria. Our route took us by the church of Santa Croce, one of the most interesting in Florence. One of the nicest things about wandering Florence in November is the marked lack of tourists. This was the least populated I have ever seen Piazza Santa Croce.



This building in the piazza is one of my favorites. It is very distinctive with its frescoed facade. Years ago I read a book by a university professor who spent a year long sabbatical living in one of the apartments atop the building. If you enlarge the photo you can probably tell that the frescoes are damaged up as high as the second tier of arched windows. This is how deep the water was during the great flood of 1966!

We eventually made our way over to the San Lorenzo market and had lunch at Trattoria Za Za behind the grand Mercato Centrale. Afterwards, Arlene wanted to go to the Santa Maria Novella farmacia.



The church of Santa Maria Novella is another beautiful church. It has the common multi-colored marble facade of many churches in Tuscany.



The piazza in front of Santa Maria Novella has all been redone. It is now a grand pedestrian area with grass and benches. A number of people (mostly locals) were enjoying the late fall sunshine.



Around the corner from Piazza Santa Maria Novella is the entrance to the farmacia. In spite of its name, meaning pharmacy, it sells a variety of soaps, lotions, colognes, potpourris and similar products. They are all natural products and use recipes that were originally developed by the monks at Santa Maria Novella.

The products were interesting but I was particularly taken with the building and furnishings. This carved wooden bench is in a little antechamber as one approaches the main part of the store.

The store encompasses a number of grand chambers filled with interesting paintings and displays.

Even the ceilings were highly decorated.

Here is one of the display cases with a number of maiolica jars, some of which are available for purchase.

A closer look at what is inside the case.

There is a museum associated with the store. It shows many of the historic vessels and machines used in the preparation of the products. These maiolica jars held different ingredients.

This room holds different machines formerly used--presses, grinders and mixers.

There is a small reference library that has glorious frescoes on the walls. These are some of the most beautiful I have seen with bold colors and excellent composition.

This is a closer view of the previous photo. The panels are various vignettes from the life of Christ.

This panel is a lovely version of the Last Supper.
From the farmacia Arlene and I made our way back to the car. We managed to make our way down several streets that seemed new to me. They were definitely less touristy that most of the Centro which is always nice. As always, it was fun to have a "girls' day out." It was great that Arlene and I could both introduce to each other new places. I look forward to future shopping expeditions with Arlene.

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