Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Tutti Santi - All Saints Day

Last Sunday, November 1, was All Saints Day. It is a national holiday in Italy so there was a lot going on.

We started the day by going to a marcia podistica (organized walk) at Colognora di Compito, a little southeast of Lucca. It was a walk we had not participated in before so we looked forward to seeing new countryside.


The day started out cold and misty. We had to scrape ice off our windshield before we could leave Partigliano! That was a little tricky as we have no ice scraper. However, I managed to scrounge an old plastic discount card out of my wallet that worked just fine.



The walk started off through the fields. I have to admit I really didn't feel all that great to start with. The evening before we had dinner with friends and probably had too much wine and limoncello. The footing was uneven, a little muddy and there were a lot of people. We planned to do the 7 km. route but I thought seriously about bailing at the turn for the 3 km. route.



The path meandered through the frosty fields, past some lovely houses.



Then our way went up a hill past a lovely villa at the top.



A good deal of the 7 km route was through a park that crowned an even bigger nearby hill. We kept trudging along through lovely woods. The falling leaves, mostly copper and yellow, make it feel very autumnal. There are few maples in this area but the ones that are around now look like bright flames.



When we got to the ristoro (refreshment stop) they even had treats for the many dogs that are always part of a marcia.



The ristoro was nearly at the top of Monte Tristo so after that (with a little hot sweet tea and buccelato--raisin anise bread--to help us long) the route was all down hill.



Just before we got to the bottom of the hill the trees opened up and there was this lovely vista across the plain to the hills north of Lucca. This farmhouse really caught our attention. It looks like the perfect restoration project. If our current house would sell we might even consider taking it on.



The marcia began and ended at the San Ginese milk processing plant. So, of course there was a man dressed up as a cow when we reached the end.



After we got home at about 10:30 am I hurriedly showered and changed and went to mass. Afterwards there was a procession to the cimiterio (cemetary) where the priest blessed the graves.


When we entered the cemetary most of the people went to stand near their loved ones graves. In the days leading up to All Saints Day most of the local people go and clean up the graves and leave fresh flowers. This year I learned that chrysanthemums are the traditional flower to take and most Italians would not consider using them anywhere else. Thus, when we passed a garden today that was full of planted mums I had to wonder if the owners were Italian.

After the priest left many of the local people stayed behind for a brief visit. Almost all the graves had flowers on them. Even if none of the family was present for the procession, someone had been by recently to decorate leave some.
The misty morning had cleared off and it was a lovely day. In the afternoon we ate lunch and then watched the last Formula 1 race of the season. Afterwards, we went to an auction preview at a villa outside Lucca. There were many lovely items to be sold off next weekend but nothing we cannot live without.
On our way back from the auction preview we stopped and visited with Arlene and Dave from Vermont. We met them a couple of years ago when they stayed nearby. They are back for another visit and it is wonderful reconnecting.

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